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BARBARA MATERA, Kent, England, July 16, 1929 -- New York City, September 13, 2001
Co-founder with her husband, Arthur, of the costume-building firm of Barbara Matera, Ltd., Matera created costumes that were featured at the Metropolitan Opera, New York City Ballet, American Ballet Theater and Covent Garden, as well as in more than 100 Broadway shows, including A Chorus Line, Follies, Dreamgirls, Aida, The Lion King and Mamma Mia!, and films from The Age of Innocence to The Addams Family. After building Joan Sutherland's dresses for a 1964 production of I Puritani with Boston Opera Group, Matera became the soprano's costumer of choice, constructing much of her onstage wardrobe for the rest of Sutherland's career. Among the other opera stars outfitted by Matera were Catherine Malfitano and Jessye Norman, their Met Makropulos Case dresses made by Matera at the request of designer Dona Granata. Matera's client list ran the gamut from Mick Jagger to Hillary Rodham Clinton, whose 1993 Inaugural Ball gown was made in Matera's studio, and she was a favored collaborator of three generations of costume designers, including her mentor Irene Sharaff; her contemporaries Theoni V. Aldredge, Desmond Heeley, Florence Klotz, Tony Walton, Freddy Wittop and Patricia Zipprodt; and today's design stars William Ivey Long and Julie Taymor. Trained at Covent Garden in the late 1940s, Matera moved to the U. S. in 1960 and founded her firm in 1968. Her work was the subject of a 1996 exhibition at the New York Library for the Performing Arts (Inside and Out: The Costumes of Barbara Matera) and an August 2000 OPERA NEWS profile ("Perfect Fit," by Eric Myers). Cause of death was a cerebral hemorrhage.
IGOR BUKETOFF, Hartford, CT, May 29, 1915 -- New York City, September 7, 2001
A conductor and scholar of Russian music, Buketoff produced a new edition of Boris Godunov that removed Rimsky-Korsakov's familiar additions and fleshed out the orchestral writing of the composer, Modest Mussorgsky. The Buketoff orchestration of Boris was given its premiere at the Metropolitan Opera in 1997, with Valery Gergiev conducting a cast headed by Samuel Ramey, Olga Borodina and Sergei Leiferkus.
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