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I always found it faintly irritating when people collared me and began expatiating on their visits to Salzburg. So many superlatives crowded together had a bad effect, like rubbing velvet the wrong way. The medieval city was so charming; the surrounding mountains were so beautiful; the ubiquitous music was so captivating. Dirndls, Mozart, The Sound of Music-genug! Enough already. It gets cloying, like being presented with an extra-large Salzburger Nockerln after too much Wiener schnitzel.
That was before my wife and I actually went to Salzburg a couple of weeks ago. This medieval city, bisected by the glittering Salzach river and replete with a crenellated ...