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Salzburg, for Real.(Salzburg, Austria)

National Review

| September 17, 2001 | KIMBALL, ROGER | COPYRIGHT 2001 National Review, Inc. This material is published under license from the publisher through the Gale Group, Farmington Hills, Michigan.  All inquiries regarding rights should be directed to the Gale Group. (Hide copyright information)Copyright

I always found it faintly irritating when people collared me and began expatiating on their visits to Salzburg. So many superlatives crowded together had a bad effect, like rubbing velvet the wrong way. The medieval city was so charming; the surrounding mountains were so beautiful; the ubiquitous music was so captivating. Dirndls, Mozart, The Sound of Music-genug! Enough already. It gets cloying, like being presented with an extra-large Salzburger Nockerln after too much Wiener schnitzel.

That was before my wife and I actually went to Salzburg a couple of weeks ago. This medieval city, bisected by the glittering Salzach river and replete with a crenellated ...

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