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During his 40-year career in fashion, the Rome-based designer Valentino dressed some of the 20th century's great style icons, including Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis and Audrey Hepburn, and along the way has become an arbiter of good taste and refinement. Last week he spoke to NEWSWEEK's Dana Thomas over tea and orange cake at his sprawling chalet in the ski resort of Gstaad, Switzerland.
NEWSWEEK: What is style?
VALENTINO: If you have a great personality you have style. It's how to move, how to act, how to make your clothes come alive. It's very boring to see a dress on a beautiful woman who doesn't have any electricity.
And elegance?
Elegance is to realize that you are not100 percent secure but you really want to be. When a woman says, "I just love this! I don't want to see anything else! This is what suits me!" sometimes she is wrong. Because to be elegant you need a lot of experience and humility. With arrogance, sometimes you succeed, but it's not natural.
How have style and elegance changed during your 40-year career?
In the 1960s, women had huge hair, unbelievable makeup, perfect little dresses, stockings, matching shoes with little heels. It was very strict--too strict. In the '70s, clothes were more free, sexy, casual-- I loved that period. The '80s were a big boom for us, because instead of selling two or three custom-made dresses, ladies bought 12, 14! But the proportions were totally wrong. The '90s was minimalist, and I have never ...