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Theodore C. Bestor, "How Sushi Went Global," in Foreign Policy (November/December 2000), Carnegie Endowment for International Peace, 1779 Massachusetts Avenue N.W., Washington, D.C. 20036.
Globalization isn't just about faceless international organizations and arcane treaties. According to Cornell anthropologist Theodore C. Bestor, it's also the reason you can get a sushi dinner at your local restaurant. Japanese tuna buyers, he argues, have helped inspire sushi eating around the globe.
The Japanese eat a lot of fish, and tuna is the most popular. Tokyo's Tsukiji fish market, with $6 billion in annual sales, is the world's largest, and 60,000 traders buy and sell several million pounds of fish each day. One large tuna may be sold for tens of thousands of dollars.
The waters around Japan are becoming overfished; so Japanese tuna buyers travel around the world looking for the perfect "export fish." The waters off New England are good tuna waters, as is the Atlantic west of Spain. Other productive tuna fisheries ...