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While I am studying the list of omelets and veggie burgers in the Morning Thunder Cafe in Quincy, California, Tom Nelson is looking around with a bemused expression. The restaurant is adorned with tie-dyed T- shirts and ads for self-actualization groups and rock concerts and is dominated by a giant espresso machine. To many old-timers in the Sierra Nevada town of 5,000, Morning Thunder is a hotbed of tree-huggers, hippies and out-and-out radicals. Nelson is a forester for Sierra Pacific Industries, the largest private timber owner in California, and a logger to the bottom of his calked boots. He shakes his head ruefully. "There was a time," he smiles, "when I would have ...