The end of cows.(Food)(Cut)(Restaurant review)

Wolfgang Puck, who is a globally famous chef, has opened Cut on Park Lane. Beef is Cut's thing and who doesn't like beef? except i am convinced that if cows, like women, discovered their own strength, there would be a cow coup, like in Planet of the Apes. (This is a very personal fantasy.) How i can see them, stampeding down Whitehall and into the Treasury, taking George Osborne hostage. Anyway, i secure a 10.30 p.m. slot on a Monday, which is too late for hunger, but not for celebrities and lighting designed to make everyone look like the Gold Blend couple ('How was Milan?'). You enter Cut through an art deco, Miami-esque entrance. The restaurant is essentially a corridor except, due to …