Forged knives make the cut.(Lab tests)(Buyers guide)

MARTHA STEWART and Paula Deen might be stars in the kitchen, but their knife sets were also-rans in our latest tests. Although a blade set from Porsche raced ahead of many others, its $590 price tag kept it out of our Select Ratings. These Ratings highlight the nine knife sets that best combine value with cutting prowess out of the 49 we tested.

Forged-steel knives sliced, diced, and chopped their way to the top of our Ratings. They tend to be sturdier and less apt to bend than stamped-steel knives, but they're more expensive. The 1 Henckels, 2 Wusthof, and 3 Henckels sets cost $260 to $300, excelled at cutting, and outperformed more expensive knives.

If you need only a few knives, the 4 Tramontina, with three blades, costs only $90. Add a slicer for an extra $40 to complete your basic set. The 5 Ginsu, a CR Best Buy at $100, offers top performance but needs more frequent sharpening. The 6 Mercer, $170, was very comfortable to use, but you trade off some performance for its lower price.

If your budget is less than $100, consider the stamped-steel 7 Oxo and 8 Chicago Cutlery (both are CR Best Buys) and 9 Chicago Cutlery. The Oxo and 8 Chicago Cutlery have more pieces, but the 9 Chicago Cutlery cut better.

Most of the knife sets we tested do not include a santoku, a cross between a chef's knife and a cleaver. Manufacturers claim that the dimples on the santoku blade create air pockets that lessen sticking, but we didn't find a noticeable difference. Some cooks might prefer it for chopping because you don't need to rock the blade.

Damascus steel, forged using a centuries-old process used to make swords, supposedly produces stronger knives that stay sharper longer. You can spot them by a swirl pattern on the blade. The $430 Henckels Miyabi 7000D and $700 Scanpan Damasthal 90000700 knives we tested did hold a fine edge longer than most, but both failed our corrosion tests, keeping them out of our Select Ratings.

Always hold knives before buying them to make sure they feel comfortable in your hand and the blade feels balanced.