Wines: 10 reds get a green light.(UP FRONT)(Product/service evaluation)

IN RECENT TESTS, our sensory experts found very good choices among two lesser-known varietals: Rioja, delicate red wine from Spain, and carmenere, similar to merlot and produced mostly in Chile. Good news for consumers on a budget: The top-rated Rioja costs $13, less than half as much as some others in our tests, and the best carmenere costs $5. If you can't find the vintage we tested, try another. Manufacturers often achieve consistency from vintage to vintage.

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Among the foods with which Rioja pairs well: pasta and pesto, lamb, flatbread with roasted vegetables, and baked or roasted chicken. Carmenere goes well with barbecued meat, mild curries, smoky chipotle, and food flavored with herbs such as sage.

 
Select Ratings 
 
The best of 13 tested. All are very good overall. Within types, in order 
of sensory quality. 
 
                              Wine                   Vintage  Price 
 
             RIOJAS Intense, with lots of black fruit aromas, 
             including blackberry and black currant, and some red 
             fruit, mostly cherry. Balanced acid and tannin. 
 
CR Best Buy  Sierra Cantabria                           2006    $13 
 
Recommended  Muga Reserva                               2004     30 
 
Recommended  ...