Less Of A Good Thing.(International Edition; LUXURY)

Byline: Joanna Chen

Hurting for business, top restaurants are devising recession menus to lure diners back to the table.

Not every meal has to be a no-frills affair. Some luxury restaurants are simply serving slightly less of their lavish offerings. With business down 20 to 50 percent at some top establishments, restaurateurs are seeking to lure diners back to the table with affordable plates that don't skimp on the extras.

In Israel, the upscale Rafael bistro in Tel Aviv was the first to introduce prix fixe "recession menus" back in October. "I prefer to see a full restaurant even if I make less money," says the chef, Rafi Cohen, who offers a variety of set menus that incorporate premium local produce over costly, imported ingredients like langoustine or caviar. Messa, another ultrachic restaurant in Tel Aviv, now offers diners half-portions of its signature dishes, such as delicate seafood couscous in crab and lemon thyme broth. The amuse-gueule, starched napkins and meticulous service remain the same here and at Catit, where diners can enjoy a palate cleanser of sangria sorbet between tasters of yellow carpaccio with hyssop leaves and Swiss chard with yuzu creme.

In London, the Square, a hyperposh, Michelin-starred restaurant in Mayfair, now offers three-course deals for under ...