Chocolates Mom could love.(chocolate candies)(Product/service evaluation)

In the February issue, we reported on very pricey chocolates that pass the Valentine's Day test. But not everyone wants to spend up to $102 (more than $4.50 per ounce) for a box of mail-order candy. For our Mother's Day test, we looked at widely sold chocolates that cost less than about $2 per ounce. Some are upscale choices from mainstream chocolatiers such as Whitman's. Could any pass muster with Mom?

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Our two very good CR Best Buys could. They cost just $1.02 to $1.98 per ounce but taste nearly as good as some choices from our earlier test that cost twice as much. Here's what's in the best boxes:

Lindt Swiss Tradition De Luxe Collection. Very milky milk chocolate and some dark envelops truffles, fresh crunchy nuts, nut butters, and runny caramels.

Ferrero Collection Prestige Fine Assorted Confections. The selection is limited but well done. Flavorful milk, white, and dark chocolate truffles with crisp wafer coatings, crunchy nuts, and soft and firm fillings create interesting textures.

The Lindt and Ferrero have about 230 calories and 16 grams of fat per 1.4-ounce serving. The lower-rated candies have texture or flavor defects--chalky chocolate, artificial flavors, or fillings that are more sweet than flavorful. The pretty appearance of Russell Stover Urban Modern World Chocolate is deceiving: The key-lime piece had a strong flavor that brought to mind a citrus cleaning product, and other pieces were waxy and chewy.