Listening Party.(The Talk of the Town)(Van Morrison)

Lakeside Lounge, on Avenue B, is known for many things: close quarters, cheap drinks, a photo booth, but most of all for its jukebox, which is full of raw R. & B., country, and early rock and roll. Last Monday afternoon, a short man in his sixties wearing oversized sunglasses and a black fedora cocked his ear toward the speaker overhead. "Joe Turner," he said. "Big Joe."

The song was "Honey Hush," a No. 1 R. & B. hit in 1953 for the Kansas City blues shouter. The man was Van Morrison, the Irish singer and songwriter, who was in town to play a pair of shows that week at the WaMu Theatre, at Madison Square Garden. The concerts were recitals of an old record, the 1968 album "Astral Weeks." But Morrison wanted to talk about even older records. "There was a place in Belfast called Atlantic Records," he said, his accent strong, his speaking voice lighter than his singing voice. "They imported the stuff from here, actually: jazz records and blues records. I'd go with my father from when I was three."

Joe Turner had stopped coming out of the jukebox. Now it was the founding fathers of rock and roll, in quick succession: Jerry Lee Lewis singing "Sixty Minute Man," Chuck Berry with "Tulane," Bo Diddley's "Dearest Darling," Little Richard on "Rip It Up." Morrison acknowledged each song with a nod. He looked slimmer than he has in the past, and he had long red hair of a hue reminiscent of Sumner Redstone. He sipped tea from a mug, and his press agent brought him a bagel with tuna salad. "The first Little Richard song I heard was 'Tutti Frutti,' " he said. "No, it was the one from the movie 'The Girl Can't Help It.' Little Richard was doing rhythm and blues, but with horns," Morrison went on. "It was different than Elvis Presley, and so I preferred it. Why would you like Elvis if you had the real stuff? I also preferred Carl Perkins and Gene Vincent. Vincent was different. He was rock and roll, dangerous."

Morrison mentioned Wynonie Harris, the ribald singer of the late forties and early fifties known as Mr. Blues: "I heard one of his on the radio, on a daytime show. Someone probably played it by accident." He held forth on Leadbelly: "He did everything from children's songs to cowboy songs to show tunes." ...