Exceptional eggplant: rich in fiber and antioxidants, this purple powerhouse is hearty and filling yet light on calories and fat.(FOOD: EAT SMART)

Mala insana. For those of you whose Latin is a little rusty, that translates as "apple of madness," and that's what people used to call the innocuous purple veggie we know as eggplant. As a member of the nightshade family, along with such notorious and occasionally fatal greenery as jimsonweed and belladonna, it was once thought to be dangerous, bordering on downright evil. It has also been referred to as apple of love, guinea squash, gilly bean, and apple of Sodom; as you can see, its reputation is all over the map.

Eggplant history stretches back for millennia. It probably originated in India, but it was in China that it was first cultivated, as long ago as the fifth century BCE. It made its way to Southeast Asia, where the greatest number of varieties can be found, and was then borne into Europe by the Moors invading Spain in the eighth century. Trade with the Arabs introduced it to Italy in the 13th century, and Spanish and Portuguese explorers subsequently ferried it to the New World.

Americans were slow to embrace the eggplant's mild flesh and fibrous skin, and until the late 1800s it was largely used as an ornamental; however, Thomas Jefferson did cultivate it at Monticello, and George Bernard Shaw (a passionate vegetarian) counted his housekeeper's eggplant dishes among his favorite repasts.

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American or Asian: Take Your Pick

The most familiar and versatile variety in America is the Western or globe eggplant--the plump, pear shaped shiny purple one found in supermarkets across the land--which lends itself to all sorts of preparations: stuffed, sauteed, baked, or grilled. The long, slender Japanese variety, ideal for stir-fries or grilling, has become more readily available of late, but to find the violet-colored Chinese; the small, round, white, and violet Italian; and the lavender and green-striped Thai versions, you'll most likely have to haunt your local farmers' market.

Purple Is in for Health