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Ramadi, Iraq
It's a chance encounter that would have been impossible a year ago. A visiting American colonel is walking out of the once-embattled government-center building here, home to U.S. forces and the Anbar provincial council. Akey Sunni sheikh is walking in. The stoutly built American is dressed in the army's digital camouflage uniform, with a sidearm and the look of someone who has seen his share of combat in this war. The sheik is resplendent in a gossamer white robe, accessorized with gold fringe and tassels. He has a mustache and wears sunglasses, with the look of someone who knows his way around the western Iraqi desert. The odd couple shake hands ...