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Byline: William Underhill
Forget any ideas of this city as the dour capital of the European Union or a kitsch stopover on the tourist trail. It has a character as diverse as its beers and as rich as its chocolate.
EAT as much heavy Belgian cuisine as you dare at the Brasserie de la Roue d'Or, an authentic survivor of the Belle Epoque, close to the central Grand Place. Moules, always a Belgian favorite, figure large on the menu (Rue des Chapeliers 26).
SHOP in the Place du Grand Sablon, the sloping cobbled square that's home not only to the city's grandest art dealers but also to a cluster ...