Ranges.(RATINGS)

You can buy a high-performing gas or electric range without spending a bundle. Several models we tested costing $450 to $1,000 outperformed ranges for $1,500 or more.Many moderately priced models also come in stainless steel or have stainless-steel trim, highpower burners, and other features. Spending more than $1,000 generally buys extras such as an additional oven or warming drawer, convection, burners rated at 15,000 Btu/hr. and higher, and a fifth burner. More money also gets you more stylish design and possibly heavier construction.

But more high-heat burners doesn't always translate into better cooking or better performance in the long run. Pro-style gas models such as DCS, Dacor, and Viking have been among the lower scorers in past tests. And less-pricey ranges outperform the 36- inch Thermador Pro Grand PG366BS, $5,800, and dual-fuel GE Monogram ZDP36N6H[SS], $5,000, from our latest report. But these two 36-inch ranges performed best among the big pro-style ranges we tested. Note that neither is a CR Quick Pick.

Guide to the Ratings

Overall score is based on oven capacity, cooktop speed and simmer performance, and oven baking, broiling, and self-cleaning performance. Cooktop high reflects how quickly the most powerful element or burner could raise a 6-liter (61/3- quart) pot of water from room temperature to a near boil. Cooktop low reflects the ability of the lowest power element or burner to melt and hold chocolate without scorching it. We also set the most powerful element to its lowest setting to test its ability to hold a large pot of tomato sauce below a boil. Baking reflects the evenness of cookies and cakes in multirack baking tests. Broiling denotes upper-element evenness as well as hightemperature searing, using a broiler pan full of hamburgers. Oven capacity is our evaluation of usable space, including shelf area and vertical space for casseroles. For dual- oven models, the score includes both ovens. Oven cleaning is a gauge of the self-cleaning cycle's effectiveness after the oven is coated with a mixture of eggs, lard, cherry-pie filling, cheese, tomato puree, and tapioca. The convection feature speeds roasting with a fan that forces warm air around the oven. Price is an approximate retail price.

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