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Made Expressly In Modena.(The Good Life; Food)(balsamic vinegar from Modena, Italy)(Brief article)

Newsweek International

| November 19, 2007 | Nadeau, Barbie | COPYRIGHT 2007 Newsweek, Inc. All rights reserved. Any reuse, distribution or alteration without express written permission of Newsweek is prohibited. For permission: www.newsweek.com. This material is published under license from the publisher through the Gale Group, Farmington Hills, Michigan.  All inquiries regarding rights should be directed to the Gale Group. (Hide copyright information)Copyright

Byline: Barbie Nadeau

Any well-stocked kitchen is certain to have a bottle of balsamic vinegar straight from Modena, Italy. Or is it? If you bought it in a bottle bigger than a few milliliters, it's unlikely to be the real thing. Most of the stuff sold in supermarkets is nothing more than red wine vinegar with caramel coloring and flavoring -- even if it purports to be "di Modena."

Traditional balsamic vinegar of Modena (aceto balsamico tradizionale di Modena) is rare and expensive, starting at about €400 a liter. It has only one ingredient: the "must," or residue, from cooked grapes, mostly grown within 30 km of Modena. The must is divided among barrels made from different woods -- balsam, cedar, chestnut, oak, juniper or cherry -- and ages for a minimum of 12 years.

The barrels are tipped periodically to absorb the essence of the wood.

When the contents are aged, producers blend bits ...

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