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Byline: Barbie Nadeau
Any well-stocked kitchen is certain to have a bottle of balsamic vinegar straight from Modena, Italy. Or is it? If you bought it in a bottle bigger than a few milliliters, it's unlikely to be the real thing. Most of the stuff sold in supermarkets is nothing more than red wine vinegar with caramel coloring and flavoring -- even if it purports to be "di Modena."
Traditional balsamic vinegar of Modena (aceto balsamico tradizionale di Modena) is rare and expensive, starting at about €400 a liter. It has only one ingredient: the "must," or residue, from cooked grapes, mostly grown within 30 km of Modena. The must is divided among barrels made from different woods -- balsam, cedar, chestnut, oak, juniper or cherry -- and ages for a minimum of 12 years.
The barrels are tipped periodically to absorb the essence of the wood.
When the contents are aged, producers blend bits ...