Behind the Secret Door; New York's hippest bars are so low profile they're practically invisible. Persistence--or connections--are required.(Cover story)

Byline: Jennie Yabroff

Velvet ropes, burly doormen and screaming paparazzi are so passe. In New York City, the hottest bars and restaurants keep a low profile--so low, in fact, you may have a hard time finding them without a GPS. Discretion is the watchword when it comes to getting through the (unmarked) doors of these secret Manhattan nightspots, but once inside, you'll be rewarded with swank furnishings, lovingly crafted cocktails and the discreet thrill of having made it to the inner sanctum.

La Esquina : The jumping taco stand on a busy corner is just a front for the real action. Call ahead for reservations, and a host will whisper your name into a walkie-talkie, then point you down some stairs. Make your way through the kitchen, and you'll emerge in a low-ceilinged Mexican restaurant and bar. Exposed crumbling brick walls, wrought-iron fixtures, candles flickering in colored glass jars and a worn plank floor lend the feel of a pirates' dungeon hideaway--if pirates drank fresh-fruit Margaritas ($12; 106 Kenmare Street; 646-613-7100).

Milk and Honey : Finagle the unlisted number from a friend (or just ask at sister bar Little Branch, 20 Seventh Avenue South), then call or text for a reservation at this speak-easy hidden behind an unmarked door in Chinatown. Once you're buzzed in, take the stairs down to a cozy, narrow room with pressed-tin ceilings, plush booths and a tiny bar. The jazz is kept at a conversation-friendly level, and the bartenders look the part, with suspenders and well-tended facial hair. No plebeian drink menu here: your ...