THE MAHARAJAH'S GARAGE.(evaluation of vintage cars)

Byline: RONAN MCGRATH

The desert state of Rajasthan is today a favorite destination for visitors to India and provides a vivid contrast to the density, pollution and 16 million people of Mumbai, the financial capital an hour's flight away. Yet not so long ago, things were very different.

The oldest dynasty in the world, the maharajahs of Mewar, ruled here from the sixth century until Indian independence. Even through the British Raj, they kept their wealth and splendid palaces, and in the 1920s and '30s, it was the maharajahs-not oil sheikhs or a go-go U.S. market-that kept Rolls-Royce alive. Often, a maharajah would order multiple cars at the same time. Even today, the heirs of these nobles still own collections of vintage cars in India that sit dusty and unused. Titles in India were abolished in 1972, but many of the historic holdings remain in family ownership.

I arrive at the small, dusty airport in Udaipur and am picked up in the hotel car, a 1948 Chrysler, one of three that were purchased new. It still ferries guests back and forth to the heartbreakingly beautiful Lake Palace Hotel, which was built in 1746 to provide a cooler environment in the 120-degree summer and was constructed in the middle of a lake. The Chrysler passes through small villages with camels, donkeys and no running water. It feels huge and travels at a leisurely 30 mph across the rutted roads toward the jetty for the Lake Palace. The driver tells me that this is his favorite car in the fleet because it has fluid (i.e., semiautomatic) drive. The only concession to modernity is air conditioning, for which I am grateful. Kids in the villages, familiar with this daily sight, wave as we drive past.

After Indian independence in 1947, the maharajah realized that keeping four palaces for personal use was a huge financial drain, so most of them are now open to the public. He still lives in the largest one. He also decided to allow the public to see his garage. It houses coaches going back to the 17th century. I see a very small cart that was designed to be hauled by gazelles, like something out of a fairy tale.

I step out of the Chrysler and enter a large, semi-circular courtyard with a couple of operational hand-cranked Shell gas pumps. The caretaker, who is also the mechanic, restorer, curator and general handyman, opens up the garages one by one. The collection is, to say the least, eclectic. There are midrange Mercedes sedans from the 1950s and '60s, Chevy trucks from the '40s, Cadillac V16s, a very rare 1948 Morris Minor convertible and, of course, Rolls-Royces.

The maharajahs were enthusiastic hunters, so it was quite common to rebody a few Rollers for this purpose. There are two in the collection from the '20s, one bodied as a gun carrier and the other with a crude Jeep-like body. Like most cars in the collection, these have never been ...