Thunder Mountain; Lush life on the world's most active volcano.

Byline: Barbie Nadeau

The view from Punta la Bronzo Pizzeria on the upper reaches of the volcanic island of Stromboli is stunning. Tiny islands dot the turquoise sea in the distance, and dramatic cliffs tower above a black-sand beach below. The lifestyle is a blend of opulence and simplicity: Stromboli is car-free, the local community is generous to visitors and the food is divine. It's no surprise that wealthy Italians from the president of the republic, Giorgio Napolitano, to the luxe designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana keep summer villas here. Lately, however, the blue skies are hazy and the fresh air is powdered with volcanic ash, thanks to an eruption that began on Feb. 27.

The sight of red-hot lava running down the sides of Stromboli should not have come as a surprise to its swank residents. Stromboli is the most active volcano on the planet, says the U.S. Geological Survey. Yet new construction has risen nearly 20 percent in the last decade, mostly multimillion-euro villas tucked into the tiny island's lush volcanic hills. And what about the people with second homes on Mount Etna and Mount Vesuvius, where developers are putting up a 450-house settlement and more than a dozen new hotels and guesthouses near Pompeii? Bernardo de Bernardinis, national director of the Italian Civil Protection department, has his own theory. "There is a very deep appeal to the volcano."

Another answer is becoming clearer in this era of burgeoning populations and rising seas: there is precious little land to be had in Europe, and Italy in particular. Private villas in Tuscany, if you can find one, sell for 25 percent higher than on Stromboli. Rising sea levels will only make the situation worse. A study by the American Association for the Advancement of Science predicts a rise of as much as 20 centimeters, cutting into both sides of Italy's peninsula, by 2030. Beach resorts in Tuscany, the Amalfi coast in the south and the islands of Sicily and Sardinia will be eroded from storm surges ...