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OLDER READERS will recall, probably with great fondness, the unannounced visits of the Rawleigh's man (or, perhaps, the Watkins man) in an earlier Australia. In my childhood days on the farm, the coming of the Rawleigh's man was an event of some magnitude. His slightly disreputable-looking van was matched by his attire--a rather threadbare but clean outfit. The impression gained at the time was that these travelling salesmen were people down on their luck. At any rate, my mother always took pity on them and raided her precious egg money on the mantelpiece to procure some small item--a jar of condiment, perhaps, or a bottle of vanilla essence. My father, on the other hand, ...