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Newsweek International

| November 13, 2006 | COPYRIGHT 2006 Newsweek, Inc. All rights reserved. Any reuse, distribution or alteration without express written permission of Newsweek is prohibited. For permission: www.newsweek.com. This material is published under license from the publisher through the Gale Group, Farmington Hills, Michigan.  All inquiries regarding rights should be directed to the Gale Group. (Hide copyright information)Copyright

Byline: Dorothy Kalins, Jason Overdorf, Florence Villeminot, Tara Weingarten, Megan Cokely

Style: Food Books

BY DOROTHY KALINS

For the first time in years, there's reason to celebrate the food books of fall. Finest among them is Michel Richard's Happy in the Kitchen (Artisan. $45). Richard's Citronelle, in Washington, D.C., is quite simply one of the best restaurants in America. You can watch him through the kitchen window: busy, mischievous, always up to something. So's the book, which reveals his methods in a charming, personal voice; a lifetime of wisdom in a big, beautiful package you'll actually use.

Nigel Slater, one of England's most endearing home cooks, chronicles his culinary year in The Kitchen Diaries (Gotham. $40). It's so much more than what to make for dinner tonight, but it's that as well. A superb example of the happy new trend of food memoirs is Madhur Jaffrey's Climbing the Mango Trees (Knopf. $25), which traces the formation of this culinary icon through her childhood in India, complete with family recipes. Preparing the exquisite little plates of food beautifully photographed in Kaiseki (Kodansha. $45) by Kyoto restaurateur Yoshihiro Murata is almost beside the point; understanding, and salivating, is.

Seems like the Joy of Cooking (Simon & Schuster. $30) has had an attitude adjustment in its 75th-anniversary edition: the trendifying of the 1997 revise removed too many of its best-loved features (brunch, jellies and preserves, quick tuna casserole). Now they're back. Whew! One Spice, Two Spice (Morrow. $34.95) is not just another Indian cookbook. Floyd Cardoz of New York's Tabla restaurant is a dad as well as a classically trained chef, and he patiently shows his young sons--and us--confidence with Indian spices.

Some years ago I chided the chef Charlie Palmer for producing a cookbook too complicated for a home cook, so now I heartily applaud Charlie Palmer's Practical Guide to the New American Kitchen (Melcher. $35), which rocks. Most cookbooks for kids are either too dopey or too dutiful, but Green Eggs and Ham Cookbook (Random House. $16.95) is not only true to the Dr. Seuss, um, oeuvre, but with Georgeanne Brennan's healthy recipes, culinarily solid.

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