Where to eat.

Liguria is the place to realize your fantasy of eating your way across Italy. It's on a smaller scale--which promises to go lightly on your waistline--and presents great variety of cuisine. (For more on regional dishes, see page 21, Cuisine of the Italian Riviera.) You'll find that dishes vary between the inland hamlets and the villages along the coast, but that in general the Ligurian diet is very healthful and based on fresh fish and vegetables with very little meat.

As everywhere, there are fantastic restaurants in every city of Liguria, and plenty of mediocre ones. The restaurants listed below are standouts where you will get a true taste of the cooking. They are coded for price as follows:

[euro] = excellent value

[euro][euro] = moderately expensive

[euro][euro][euro] = splurge

Alassio

La Prua

Passeggiata Baracca, 25, 17021 Alassio

[telephone] 0182.642.557, fax 0182.640.277

[euro][euro][euro]

Whitewashed walls and exposed-stone ceilings lend character at this waterfront restaurant specializing in seafood. Service on the terrace in summer.

Palma

Via Cavour, 11, 17021 Alassio

[telephone] 0182.640.314, fax 0182.640.314

[euro][euro][euro]

Make reservations for a special night out at this celebrated, central restaurant specializing in Ligurian and Provencal cuisine.

Albenga

Pernambucco

Viale Italia, 35, 17031 Albenga

[telephone] 0182.534.58, fax 0182.534.58

[euro][euro]

Don't be distracted by the location within the Minisport recreation park. This restaurant serving seafood specialties is a favorite in the town.

Antica Osteria dei Leoni

Via Lengueglia, 49, 17031 Albenga

[telephone] 0182.519.37

Closed second and third weeks January, mid-end October, Mondays

[euro][euro]

A restaurant serving fish and seafood in an atmospheric corner of Albenga's lovely Centro Storico.

Da Puppo

Via Torlaro, 17031 Albenga, fax 0182.518.53

[euro]

Very popular little restaurant serving traditional, informal dishes like farinata and tortas, with a wood-burning oven for pizza.

Albissola Marina

Al Cambusiere

Via Repetto, 86, 17012 Albissola Marina

[telephone] 019.481.663, fax 019.486.866, info@cambusiere.it,

www.cambusiere.it

[euro][euro]

Chef Ignazio Benenati serves seafood dishes in the dining room of this 17th-century building in the historical heart of the seaside resort. Rooms available.

Ristorante Da Mario

Corso Bigliati, 70, 17012 Albissola Marina

[telephone] 019.481.640

[euro][euro]

A beautiful, sunny terrace is available for outdoor dining overlooking the sea. For three generations serving Ligurian seafood specialties.

Ameglia

Locanda delle Tamerici

Via Litoranea, 106, loc. Fiumaretta di Ameglia 19031

[telephone] 0187.642.62, fax 0187.646.27, locandadelletamerici@tin.it

Closed Mondays, Tuesdays, December 24-January 15

[euro][euro][euro]

The rustic dining room is a contrast to the elegant, modern meals prepared by this Michelin-starred kitchen. Seasonal, local ingredients inform the changing menu.

Apricale

Le Grotte della Locanda

Via Roma, 1, 18030 Apricale

[telephone] 0184.208.5222

Closed Thursdays

[euro]

A stone-vaulted grotto is the setting for a wine bar with an extensive list and menu of simple dishes.

La Capanna da Baci

[telephone] 0184.208.139, fax 0184.209.977

Closed Tuesdays, Monday dinner

[euro]

Atmospheric setting with stone walls and a terrace with panoramic valley view. House-made pastas and roasted meat dishes.

La Favorita

Strada San Pietro, 1, 18035 Apricale

[telephone] 0184.208.186, fax 0184.208.247

Closed last week June-first week July, Tuesday dinner, Wednesdays

except July-September, info@hotelristorantelafavorita.com,

www.hotelristorantelafavorita.com

[euro]

A standout for Ligurian dishes with a mountain inflection. Rustic dining room and terrace with magnificent view.

Bergeggi

Claudio

Via XXV Aprile, 37, 17028 Bergeggi

[telephone] 019.859.750, fax 019.859.750, info@hotelclaudio.it,

www.hotelclaudio.it

Closed January, February, Mondays, weekday lunch

[euro][euro][euro]

Chef/owner Claudio Pasquarelli presides in this celebrated kitchen, turning out impeccable seafood dishes. Lovely view from the terrace. Inquire about meals served aboard the hotel/restaurant's 22-m/66-foot sailing cutter.

Bordighera

Magiarge Vini e Cucina

Piazza Giacomo Viale, 18012 Bordighera

[telephone] 0184.262.946, fax 0184.262.946, viniecucina@magiarge.it,

www.magiarge.it

Dinner only July-August, closed Monday, Tuesday lunch

[euro]

Tucked-away rustic restaurant is a locals' choice for simple but perfectly prepared meals.

Piemontese

Via Roseto, 8, 18012 Bordighera

[telephone] 0184.261.651, fax 0184.261.651

Closed November, Tuesdays

[euro]

Winter visitors get to sample the cuisine of neighboring Piedmont while fish and Ligurian specialties are on the menu during summer.

La Via Romana

Via Romana, 57, 18012 Bordighera

[telephone] 0184.266.681, fax 0184.267.549

viaromana@masterweb.it, www.laviaromana.it

[euro][euro][euro]

This elegant, Liberty-style (Art Deco) dining room in the Grand Hotel Londre has earned a Michelin star for its fine-quality seafood and meats.

Bussana Vecchia

Apriti Sesamo

Via Alla …