Central Mountains.

To find the real Puerto Rico--the one that shopping malls and condos have yet to reach--head for the towns and villages of the Cordillera Central, or Central Mountains. Bisected by the Ruta Panoramica (Scenic Route), the mountains provide a relaxing getaway with an atmosphere so unlike the coast that it feels like an entirely different island. The Ruta Panoramica is a driving adventure covering more than a hundred miles of countryside, including coffee plantations, old jibaro country and four forests: Carite, Toro Negro, Guilarte and Maricao. Along the route are valleys, canyons, wide-open terraces and views of the Atlantic and the Caribbean. Visitors who don't have time to do the whole Ruta Panoramica might consider a driving tour starting out from San Juan to the San Cristobal canyon in Aibonito, returning via Barranquitas--easily doable in a day if you start out early. Or take a few days to enjoy secluded swimming holes, hiking trails, cloud forest and the hospitality of the mountain locals.

Getting Here & Getting Around

There is only one good way to explore the Cordillera Central--by Car--and you'll need at least a full day or two (or more) to do it. A spellbinding drive, the Ruta Panoramica runs along the spine of the Central Mountains, and is extremely winding in many places. Although the entire island is only 100 miles long, this route takes a full day to complete in its entirety. Publicos connect all sizeable towns, but these mini-buses generally make short trips, and traveling in this manner will severely limit the amount of territory you can cover. If you plan to make short forays to specific locations in the mountains, choose your route carefully. Highways into the mountains (designated in red or yellow on roadmaps) are much faster than smaller roads. From San Juan, it takes roughly the same amount of time to reach most western mountain destinations via northern or southern highways.

AUTHORS' TIP: To enjoy your time in the mountains to the fullest, reserve a hotel room for a night or two, so you don't feel rushed.

Communications

A sign of the modernity of today's Puerto Rico is that, even in the most remote mountain towns, public pay phones generally work as well as those in metropolitan San Juan. Mobile phone coverage, on the other hand, is extremely spotty in the mountains. Unless you're staying at one of the more upscale guest houses in the Cordillera Central, don't expect to be able to pick up your e-mail. Use the mountains an excuse to get away from the outside world!

Touring & Sightseeing