+Fashion Forward; The freshest new clothes are coming not from cities like London and Paris but from some of the world's hottest emerging markets. NEWSWEEK profiles four local designers to watch.(Cover story)

Byline: Sudip Mazumdar and Sumeet Chatterjee (Owen Matthews Melinda Liu Mac Margolis)

SHAHZAD KALIM

When Kalim went to school in the Indian state of Bihar, many in his small town could barely afford proper clothing, let alone worry about being fashionable. But he dreamed of striking patterns and flashy colors, even doctoring his drab school uniform. Despite initial resistance from his orthodox Muslim parents, he attended the National Institute of Fashion Technology in Hyderabad. Last year Kalim, 25, won in a TV reality show called "Lakme Fashion House," created to spot India's top talent, for his elaborate designs in green, gold and turquoise brocade. He won praise from judge Donatella Versace, as well as a six-month internship at her house in Milan. With his clothes already on sale in Dubai and India, Kalim now has his sights set on London and New York. "I am sure my outfits will be very popular overseas, since they have a nice blend of Indian and Western styles," he says.

Sudip Mazumdar and Sumeet Chatterjee

DENIS SIMACHEV

The look is prerevolutionary St. Petersburg rake crossed with young Moscow millionaire: big furry hats paired with snappy double-breasted tweed jackets and riding boots--or even high-heeled red patent-leather boots. And yes, the fur is real--the very best Siberia can produce. Simachev, 31, says his vision is to bring "the most expensive components of the luxury lifestyle" to a market of aggressively hip young Russians eager to flaunt their cool. His iconic T shirt last summer featured a portrait of Vladimir Putin surrounded by a halo of flowers. Already the darling of wealthy Russians in expensive capitals around the world, Simachev will open a Moscow boutique later this month. It promises to be a temple of New Russian eclecticism, with giant chandeliers and furniture that once belonged to Catherine the Great's lover Grigori Potemkin. And suits that can cost more than $3,000.

Owen ...