Diary: No bottling it: the verdict on John Hegarty's first wine.

Here at Campaign, we like to deliver our verdict on the big industry issues faster than the first Beaujolais Nouveau hits the coolest London bar. So we thought you should be the first to get a heads-up on Hegarty Chamans 2003.

You've never heard of it? Then clearly you don't know your Chardonnay from your shandy.

Hegarty Chamans 2003 represents the first output from John Hegarty's 125-acre vineyard in the Minervois appellation in the Languedoc. When he isn't being the chairman and worldwide creative director of Bartle Bogle Hegarty, wine-making now takes up a sizeable proportion of his time. Not to mention a sizeable chunk of his bank balance.

Indeed, Hegarty confesses that on each of his trips to his estate, he feels as though a vacuum cleaner is being applied to each of his trouser pockets.

So, has all Hegarty's hard work been worth it? We asked Richard Warren (pictured), Delaney Lund Knox Warren & Partners' strategy director and resident wine buff, to taste the results and do his best Jilly Goolden impersonation.

'The first thing you notice about Hegarty's three wines from Minervois is the Hegarty name and black sheep on the label. This overt 'branding' is far more New World than France, where vineyard location or ...