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IN A GREEK TAVERNA Food here is layered as civilizations. Phyllo leaves stacked and mortared with butter crisp and gold as leaves that fall now, but much thinner, more like leaves of the Bible, or some other text brittle with age and study. Underneath lies spinach, green as spring that waits under autumn's leaves, and under every text we have devised. See how more phyllo, changed by what's come after, appears again at the bottom of this excavation, as war or peace, or wind or water's vengeance cycles through our lives. Spanakopita, moussaka, souvlakia-- not only history's vast sweep, but kitchen time, ...