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Byline: Stefan Thiel, Sana Butler, Ginanne Brownell, Florence Villeminot and Hideko Takayama, Michelle Jana Chan, Silvia Spring, Tracy McNicoll
Wine: The Return Of Riesling
By Stefan Theil
It's the biggest comeback in the world of wine. A decade or two ago, German Riesling seemed to appeal mainly to school matrons and aging British eccentrics. Today, Riesling wines are hot, with star sommeliers and trendy restaurateurs plugging the grape. German wine exports--composed mostly of Riesling, the country's premier white-wine grape--have doubled in just four years, says Prince Michael zu Salm-Salm, head of the German Quality Winegrowers' Association. In Britain, sales of German wine have soared 89 percent since 2003. "Those of us who love Riesling just won't shut up about it," gushes London wine guru Jancis Robinson.
The growing demand for food-friendly wines has sparked the Riesling rage. "A crisp, fruity Riesling," says winemaker Friedrich Groebe in Westhofen, near the Rhine, "will go with just about anything." Luxurious older Rieslings pair well with cheese, pate and desserts. The grape also fits a trend toward less alcoholic, lighter wines; Riesling often has less than 10 percent alcohol vs. 14 or more for Chardonnay. And German Riesling may be the world's best wine bargain. Though top-tier bottles go for as much as 4,000 euros, a good basic bottle starts below 10 euro. "For 20 euros you can get a seriously thrilling Riesling," says Robinson. But buy now: prices have been creeping up.
Don't miss: Gunderloch 2004 Jean Baptiste Riesling Kabinett : Grown on a hill beside the Rhine, this juicy vintage boasts peach and apple flavors. Try with stir fry.
Donnhoff 2004 Norheimer Kirschheck Riesling Sptlese : Creamy, rich and floral, with tasty minerals from the volcanic soils.