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The Coonawarra: a viticultural frontier? Or just a case of sour grapes?

The Globe

| February 01, 2004 | Foale, Max; Smith, Derek | COPYRIGHT 2004 Australian Map Circle. This material is published under license from the publisher through the Gale Group, Farmington Hills, Michigan.  All inquiries regarding rights should be directed to the Gale Group. (Hide copyright information)Copyright

This paper discusses the definition of the Coonawarra Viticultural Region by the Geographical Indications Committee of the Australian Wine and Brandy Corporation. The paper focuses on the geographical elements, critiques the extended process that resulted in the determination, and provides some alternative suggestions based on geography.

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By 1990 about 400 viticultural regions were recognised in Australia. In the late 1980s the need for formal definition arose as a result of international treaty obligations connected with trade and intellectual property rights. From 1994 a committee set up by the Australian Wine and Brandy Corporation (AWBC) became responsible for the official delineation and definition of Australian viticultural regions. This was the Geographical Indications Committee (GIC). The committee of three worked within a framework of Regulations which were to give "geographical" guidance.

In 1997, the GIC presented an Interim Determination for the Coonawarra Region. Whereas most previous determinations had proceeded with few problems, the Coonawarra Determination was to cause great discontent and conflict and, arguably, has still not been satisfactorily resolved. It had become a "frontier of dissent".

BACKGROUND TO THE REGION

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