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LAST WORDS.(Marie Smith Jones)

The New Yorker

| June 06, 2005 | Kolbert, Elizabeth | COPYRIGHT 2005 All rights reserved. Reproduced by permission of The Condé Nast Publications Inc. This material is published under license from the publisher through the Gale Group, Farmington Hills, Michigan.  All inquiries regarding rights should be directed to the Gale Group. (Hide copyright information)Copyright

The last full-blooded member of the Eyak nation, Chief Marie Smith Jones, lives in Anchorage, Alaska, in a two-story, tan-colored building posted with a notice that warns "No dogs" and "No water beds." On a gray Saturday last spring, I arranged to go visit her. When I arrived at her apartment, no one answered the door. I thought perhaps she had forgotten our appointment and had gone off, but when I called up from the street it turned out that she had decided she did not feel like talking to me that afternoon, or, she implied, ever. I probably never would have got to meet her except that a friend of hers had advised me to bring along, as a gesture of respect, some halibut, ...

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