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The last full-blooded member of the Eyak nation, Chief Marie Smith Jones, lives in Anchorage, Alaska, in a two-story, tan-colored building posted with a notice that warns "No dogs" and "No water beds." On a gray Saturday last spring, I arranged to go visit her. When I arrived at her apartment, no one answered the door. I thought perhaps she had forgotten our appointment and had gone off, but when I called up from the street it turned out that she had decided she did not feel like talking to me that afternoon, or, she implied, ever. I probably never would have got to meet her except that a friend of hers had advised me to bring along, as a gesture of respect, some halibut, ...