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Polish city's cafe culture makes a comeback.(Krakow)

The Seattle Times (Seattle, WA)

| June 20, 2005 | Pucci, Carol | COPYRIGHT 2005 The Seattle Times. This material is published under license from the publisher through the Gale Group, Farmington Hills, Michigan.  All inquiries regarding rights should be directed to the Gale Group. (Hide copyright information)Copyright

Byline: Carol Pucci

KRAKOW, Poland _ It was 8 a.m. and snowing when I showed up in the lobby of the 12-room Globtroter inn on the edge of Krakow's medieval town center.

I'd been up most of the night after my flight from Paris was delayed by weather. Crawling into bed was what I had in mind, but I'd come to spend a few days exploring Krakow's burgeoning coffeehouse culture, and the cold weather and lack of sleep seemed like good reasons to get started.

Krakow has 300 cafes, bars and restaurants, and its many coffeehouses "are one of its biggest pluses," Peter Typa, the Globtroter's desk clerk, told me when I asked him for a few recommendations. "People come from Warsaw to drink coffee. Everyone has their favorite."

In Communist Poland, the kawiarnia or cafe was a place where the city's intelligentsia and social activists _ Catholic priests (Pope John Paul II was the former archbishop of Krakow), university professors and students _ could meet for coffee and conversation.

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