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Herr Issyvoo. The name sounds like a kiss followed by a sigh. At least, that's the way it's pronounced--with reverence, with love--in the gay quarters of Berlin, where the English writer Christopher Isherwood (1904-86), who lived there, off and on, between 1929 and 1933, became a figure in the demimonde. Of course, those five years continue to color the emotional climate of a city where one can still see the traces of the disaster that followed--the bullet marks and shrapnel lodged in the sides of gray marble office buildings--and where the most discussed cultural event of the season is "Der Untergang" ("The Downfall"), a film detailing Hitler's last days in the bunker. ...