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Byline: Fred Tasker
No wine is more variable than pinot noir _ racy with acid, tangy with tart-cherry flavors when young, chock with august flavors of leather and tea with age, infinitely different depending on whether it's from California or France. Here are some good new releases:
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED
_ 1999 Whitford Pinot Noir, Haynes Vineyard, Napa Valley: intense mint and black cherry aromas, menthol and black cherry liqueur flavors, intense, opulent, smooth; $22.
_ 1997 Beniger Pinot Noir Reserve, Sonoma County: intense menthol and cranberry aromas, intense black raspberry and mocha flavors, viscous, hints of leather; $43.
RECOMMENDED:
_ 1999 Beringer Pinot Noir Founder's Estate, California: oak and flower aromas, rich, sweet-tart cherries, ...