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A refreshing return to the salad days.

Fort Worth Star-Telegram (Fort Worth, TX)

| June 27, 2001 | COPYRIGHT 2001 Fort Worth Star-Telegram. This material is published under license from the publisher through the Gale Group, Farmington Hills, Michigan.  All inquiries regarding rights should be directed to the Gale Group. (Hide copyright information)Copyright

Byline: Laura Ressner

Summer means that salads move into a more prominent mealtime position, even for those not watching their weight. (And who are those people, I ask?) But it is too easy to fall into a salad rut, tossing a few tomato slices on top of some lettuce with a splash of bottled dressing. We have all been guilty of that, exhaustion and heat withering the creativity from our brains. So here, I offer two simple-to-prepare yet sophisticated salads. Use them as a main course for a light meal or as a starter.

Both are from the terrific cookbook "Bon App'tit Outdoor Entertaining" (Pantheon Books, $29.95). I confess that the first time I made the fennel, arugula and orange salad, it was because I needed to use up the fennel bulbs I had bought on impulse at the farmers market. I have, however, made it many times since then. The salad is elegant and refreshing. If you are not sure what a fennel bulb is, ask for it at your supermarket _ it looks a little bit like the base of a bunch of celery, but is more swollen and white. The flavor is like anise or licorice, and the bulb is crunchy. Fennel is delicious raw, though it can also be grilled with other vegetables for a summer treat.

The second salad is another opportunity to explore the vegetable section at your supermarket. It uses four kinds of lettuces, which vary in texture, color and flavor. The combination of the lettuces plus the blue cheese pieces is complex and appealing. My husband, John, and I love to share this salad as a summer supper with a glass of wine.

FENNEL, ARUGULA AND ORANGE SALAD

Serves 6 as a generous starter or 4 as a main course

3 large oranges

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