Vogue articles from September 2005

Vogue archives from September 2005

the empire strikes back.(Pride and Prejudice)
September 1, 2005... If you have a taste for historical costume dramas and love to see grand-scale dresses up there on the screen, the best place to look is usually a romance based on a novel by Jane Austen. Remember the 1995 version of Pride and Prejudice,...

DELUXE INTERIORS.(Class Act)(Brief Article)(Book Review)
September 1, 2005... Byline: Andre Leon Talley Suzanne Slesin has edited another gorgeous tome-Class Act, by Jean H. Mathison and Peter Schifando (Pointed Leaf Press), about famous Hollywood interior decorator William Haines. Haines was a silent-screen...

salad days; Were the seeds of female liberation sown in the kitchen.
September 1, 2005... Byline: Betty Fussell At five o'clock on November 1, 1949, we welcomed guests to our first cocktail party in the slum apartment we called home on Huntington Avenue, across from the Mechanics' Institute in Boston, just one year before...

seize the day; As a college student, Tamasin Day-Lewis had a near-fatal accident that changed her view of her place in the world.
September 1, 2005... Byline: Tamasin Day-lewis We are sitting in that cold, bright, dry air that you find only in the mountains, high up above Courchevel at our favorite lunchtime watering hole. The sky and the sun and the snow and the clonking of ski boots on...

wedding of the month jemma & arthur mornington.
September 1, 2005... The fairy-tale wedding that Jemma Kidd had always dreamed of took place on her parents' sprawling plantation in Barbados, where the bride spent much of her childhood playing polo. After all, she was marrying her prince charming, England's most...

Trend of the moment the full effect.(Brief Article)
September 1, 2005... Showstopping dresses-corseted on top, cascading with trains on the bottom-are making memorable entrances at formal black-tie events and festive garden parties alike. Whether blooming with ruffles or tied at the waist with a bow, these...

seasons in the sun; They had joy, they had fun this summer, at parties bright with sunshine and flowers.
September 1, 2005... Byline: William Norwich If I asked once, I asked a thousand times, but clearly the last trade secret venerable events designer Robert Isabell was going to share was where he found an abundance of bougainvillea in the ides of a New York...

the others; Commercial lines-a flock of pretty dresses by Oscar, Prada, and YSL-are,as Sarah Mower reports, no longer the dumbed-down sisters of their runway counterparts.
September 1, 2005... In the annals of fashion one-upmanship, there's one experience I've never seen recorded. It goes like this: you walk into the office or toward a group of women friends. Hellos and kisses ensue, followed by a speculative pause while you're...

the new old thing; Vintage clothes can cost almost as much as new clothes (also ridiculously expensive) that look old-what's the best investment.
September 1, 2005... Once upon a time, bright young things ran around town in ratty thirties velvet opera cloaks with Paris labels, beaded cashmere twinsets from the Eisenhower era, and campy sixties frocks found at the Goodwill for $6. In those days, vintage...

freshly squeezed; Juicy loyalists get ready to accessorize as the label debuts fancy handbags and jewelry for fall.(Juicy Couture)(Michelle Sanders)(Interview)(Biography)
September 1, 2005... Among the many different ways that you can look at life are these two: (1)Life is a great thing. (2)Life is full of really great things that, in total, make it a really great thing. This second way of looking at life might be...

what price glory? Fashion buyers help Robert Sullivan get to the bottom of why prices are so high these days-and what pieces will fly off the racks, regardless.
September 1, 2005... At cocktail parties and in the foyers at museum-based balls this fall, history-minded fashion lovers will no doubt be equating the current period of fashion prices with what history-minded economists refer to as price revolutions, economic...

cashing in; A jeweler specializes in stones whose value rolls over.(Luna Scamuzzi)(Brief Article)
September 1, 2005... Byline: Mark Holgate Don't you hate it when financial institutions tell you, "Past performance is no guarantee of future results"? It might pay to invest in something almost guaranteed to appreciate: jewelry from former architect Luna...

the italian job; Emilio Pucci chose a tall, willowy, blonde American art-history student as his special model one winter in Florence.
September 1, 2005... Byline: Alice Bingham Gorman I met him in Florence in November 1956. Two American friends and I were spending the winter in Italy, art-history students at the Universita per Stranieri. We were paying guests of the elderly, widowed Contessa...

in all modesty; Marina Rust relished the idea of sampling fall's demure looks, though she discovered that coverage isn't always clever.
September 1, 2005... Byline: Marina Rust This is the sort of assignment I usually accept. Would I like Vogue to send me the latest looks off the runways, then I'll wear them to parties? Um, yes. "Fall is all about prim," said my editor. "You'll be reporting...

mystical adornment.(Lauren duPont, Doug Abraham)(Brief Article)
September 1, 2005... Byline: Jane Herman Lauren duPont and Doug Abraham are having a riot of a time citing the inspirations for their new line of homespun-medieval jewelry. They explicate in a canon of fanciful specifics: The opalescent moonstones are like...

hello again; O etes-vous, Polly Maggoo.(1960s clothing)
September 1, 2005... Byline: Lynn Yaeger We think living in London in the sixties must have been quite an experience! It was a time of real cultural optimism-the young people were pushing their limits, listening to the Beatles, and wearing miniskirts. It was...

clancy mccarty; At nineteen, this NYU sophomore and aspiring designer combines rocker gear, classic tailoring, and bold family jewels with remarkable flair.(Brief Article)(Interview)
September 1, 2005... Byline: Kit Krugman New Romantic I'm inspired by men's clothing, but also by the sophistication of couture. As a result, I wear mainly black and white, except for one man's yellow v-neck cashmere sweater, which is baggy and goes with...

the way we wore; Tucked into a low-slung building in L.A. is an epic collection of vintage fashion-from Civil War shawls to seventies Courreges.(Palace Costume and Prop Co.)
September 1, 2005... Byline: Robert Sullivan One difference between the L.A.-based Palace Costume and Prop Company and, say, the Costume Institute in New York is that Nicole Kidman is (probably) not going to try on the fifties-era furs from the Costume...

leader of the pack; Isaac Mizrahi and furrier Alixandre indulge their animal instincts with a new line of shearling peacoats, slim-cut parkas, and safari jackets.
September 1, 2005... Byline: Sally Singer As it's transpired, the ever-theatrical Isaac Mizrahi's so-called return to fashion has been a comeback but certainly not a reprise. Forswearing the seemingly compulsory career structure of a big-time designer-runway...

stranded.(necklaces)(Brief Article)
September 1, 2005... The big bead craze all started with the December 2004 issue of Vogue, in which Canadian beauty Daria Werbowy was photographed on Bora Bora with huge Tahitian pearls and seashells draped around her golden neck. Soon, simple, oversize strands...

taking the lead; With her unstoppable talent and classic good looks, Michelle Monaghan is quickly becoming a Hollywood favorite.(Brief Article)(Interview)
September 1, 2005... Byline: John Powers I've been doing a lot of kickboxing," says Michelle Monaghan during a break from her preparations for Mission Impossible 3. "It's so much fun-though I'm not very coordinated." As if to prove the point, she accidentally...

man on a mission; Ralph Fiennes plays an indifferent diplomat galvanized to action in "The Constant Gardener", while Elijah Wood is a writer on a pilgrimage in "Everything Is Illuminated".(Movie Review)
September 1, 2005... ustin Quayle (Ralph Fiennes), the reluctant hero of The Constant Gardener, is something of a milquetoast. A mid-level functionary at the British High Commission in Nairobi, he shows no burning concern for foreign affairs or even for his own...

tainted love.(Asylum)(The Baxter)(Movie Review)
September 1, 2005... Byline: John Powers You may have trouble deciding who's the craziest character in director David Mackenzie's Asylum, a Gothic tale of romantic obsession set in a hospital for the mentally disturbed. Natasha Richardson plays Stella, the...

the razor's edge; Straight off a smash run on the West End, Stephen Sondheim's "Sweeney Todd", writes Adam Green, gets ready to slay 'em on Broadway.(Theater Review)
September 1, 2005... About ten years ago, the Scottish-born theater director John Doyle found himself in Liverpool on the horns of a dilemma: his budget for a production of Leonard Bernstein's Candide was large enough to pay for either a cast or an orchestra but...

anything goes.(Two Gentlemen of Verona)(Theater Review)
September 1, 2005... Byline: Adam Green First produced in Central Park in 1971, Two Gentlemen of Verona, a sexy, loose-limbed, utterly charming musical adaptation of the early Shakespeare comedy, is back home. John Guare's puckish book and lyrics freely mix...

fashion underfoot; Victoria Magniant's custom-made rugs adorn the floors of Paris's chicest apartments.(Brief Article)(Interview)
September 1, 2005... Byline: Elisabeth Franck-dumas With self-deprecating charm, the 26-year-old carpet designer Victoria Magniant describes her collections for her family's Paris-based rug company, Casa Lopez, as "lacking coherence." Spare yet lush, her...

a grand opening; Art dealers Stefania Bortolami and Amalia Dayan are all set to stir up the New York scene, writes Eve MacSweeney.
September 1, 2005... Byline: Eve Macsweeney When two charismatic female art dealers quit their jobs at New York's Gagosian Gallery last fall and announced they were opening their own space, the frisson was felt from Basel to Miami. Stefania Bortolami and...

FROM RUSSIA WITH LOVE.(RUSSIA!)(Brief Article)
September 1, 2005... Byline: Ted Loos If you think of Russian art as jumping from gilded religious icons to brainy abstractions by Kazimir Malevich with a Siberian wasteland in between, get ready to bid that idea a hearty dos vedanya with the arrival of this...

full house; From ancient Rome to the Pentagon and alien invasions, the fall season has it all.(television programs)(Television Program Review)
September 1, 2005... As the worst movie summer in 20 years ends, a fall season begins on TV that is rich with hybrid vigor, or at least with hybrids. We get the ancient world with all its lust and ambitions, the present day with all its angst and ambitions, and the...

in brief.(new television programs)
September 1, 2005... Byline: Joan Juliet Buck Surface, on NBC. Something is out there in the sea. It is nasty. It lurks. It's big. When the young boy in San Diego scoops up some oozy stuff from the surface of the night sea and puts it in the aquarium, we...

el conquistador; After winning seven titles on clay in one season, Rafael Nadal takes a shot at the U.S. Open.(Brief Article)(Biography)
September 1, 2005... Byline: Dodie Kazanjian Watching Rafael Nadal beat Andy Roddick in the Davis Cup finals last December left no doubt that tennis's next great star had arrived. A swashbuckling eighteen-year-old Spanish kid in knee-length pirate pants and a...

great genius; Hilary Spurling's "Matisse the Master" breaks new ground.(Book Review)
September 1, 2005... Byline: Robert Hughes Although Matisse died in 1954, half a century ago, nobody until now has written his life. There was nothing for the English historian Hilary Spurling to compete against, and now that her second volume, Matisse the...

a soldier's story; Fresh from the British Army, James Blunt is the U.K.'s newest rock star.(Brief Article)(Biography)
September 1, 2005... Byline: Lauren Collins Despite the fact that he recently surpassed Coldplay on the British pop charts, James Blunt wasn't exactly born to be a rock star. For one thing, the house he grew up in didn't have a CD player. (His father...

estate living; This month brings the exciting debut of Hotel Endsleigh in southwest England's beautiful Devon County.(Hotel Tresanton)(Bovey Castle)(Hotel Review)
September 1, 2005... Byline: Richard Alleman Built in the early 1800s as the hunting and fishing lodge of the Duke and Duchess of Bedford, Endsleigh was designed by Sir Jeffrey Wyatville with gardens by Humphry Repton. Endsleigh remained in the duke's family...

a dark season; With her trademark forthrightness and precision, Joan Didion has written about the most difficult year of her life.(The Year of Magical Thinking)(Book Review)
September 1, 2005... Byline: Dana Goodyear Born fearful," and born in California, Joan Didion had long prepared herself for death by cataclysm: landslide, earthquake-an event impersonal, tectonic, and complete. To ward off or at least defer this imagined doom,...

around the world; Spanning continents and decades, Salman Rushdie's latest novel follows a dancer, a clown, and a dangerously charming ambassador.(Shalimar the Clown)(Book Review)
September 1, 2005... Byline: Nell Freudenberger Early in Salman Rushdie's new novel, Shalimar the Clown (Random House), Max Ophuls, an Alsatian-born hero of the French Resistance and a former American ambassador to India, is driving on L.A.'s Laurel Canyon...

law & disorder.(Exposure)(Brief Article)(Book Review)
September 1, 2005... Byline: Florence Kane Talitha Stevenson's first novel, An Empty Room, was short-listed for a 2003 Whitbread award. Her stirring second effort, Exposure (Harcourt), confirms the young English author's uncanny flair for psychological plots....

life work; Three dazzling new books explore the fertile ground where art and experience intertwine.(The Accidental Masterpiece: On the Art of Life and Vice Versa)(New Art City: Manhattan at Mid-Century)(Picasso: Art Can Only Be Erotic)(Brief Article)(Book Review)
September 1, 2005... Byline: Leslie Camhi Michael Kimmelman's day job as chief art critic for The New York Times takes him regularly through the minds of artists and art people, from the painter Pierre Bonnard's tenderness toward his notoriously reclusive wife...

let's do brunch; The renowned chef David Bouley demonstrates how that oft-maligned weekend ritual can become a celebration for the senses.
September 1, 2005... Were David Bouley, chef and restaurateur extraordinaire, to invite you to meet him at the corner for a peanut-butter-and-jelly sandwich, you'd go. In the maestro's hands, that humble meal could be nothing less than a luscious gastronomic...

inspiration tribeca brunch.
September 1, 2005... Byline: William Norwich 1) A private tutorial with David Bouley's cookbook East of Paris: The New Cuisines of Austria and the Danube ($35; amazon.com) will keep your guests guessing the name of your caterer. 2) Create a tabletop that's...

compliments to the chefs; Chicago has emerged as an epicurean epicenter, Jeffrey Steingarten writes, home to several of the most accomplished culinary masters.(Restaurant Review)
September 1, 2005... Byline: Jeffrey Steingarten It is well past midnight, and as I sit here at my desk in Manhattan, I am getting totally hungry. On the whole, I wish I were back in Chicago. For the present, Chicago is the most exciting American city in...

Lipstick lust; The season's ladylike lips are polished and perfect, yet natural and not at all fussy.
September 1, 2005... Byline: Sarah Brown Sometime in the last decade, a significant shift-makeup-wise- occurred: Without even realizing it, we became a lipgloss nation. Women in sharply tailored suits, hipsters in vintage bohemian frocks, and teenagers in tank...

Fresh crop; Their numbers are passed around at parties, their names whispered among supermodels, society girls, and Hollywood starlets.(Ted Gibson, Ashley Javier, Renato Campora)
September 1, 2005... Byline: Ying Chu TED GIBSON With a dab of mousse, six bobby pins, and a flip of his fingers, Ted Gibson transforms model Lisa Cant's hair from flat to fierce. "You learn to be fast doing the shows," he says, referring to his time...

John Sahag 1952-2005.(Brief Article)(Obituary)
September 1, 2005... Byline: Julie Grau On Mondays, when salons across the city go dark, you could always find John Sahag in his Madison Avenue workshop, going from seven till seven as a steady stream of the faithful filed in for their turn in his chair....

The lipstick diaries.
September 1, 2005... Iife is grand for Marjorie Gubelmann Raein. The dynamic Manhattan social butterfly spends winters poolside in Palm Beach, the Christmas holiday on the slopes of St. Moritz, and every August sipping bellinis in Capri. So when she was creating...

screen star; Cues from the rue Cambon.(Coromandels de Chanel compact)(Brief Article)
September 1, 2005... Byline: Sarah Brown There's a wonderfully discreet Dali painting of a single sheaf of wheat, a bronze Giacometti hand poised nonchalantly on an end table, and that couch-sandy-colored suede with giant quilted cushions, reminiscent of a...

the firm; With her fortieth birthday-and a sleek, silver Narciso Rodriguez dress-fast approaching, Sally Singer takes a ten-week crash course toward a total body transformation.
September 1, 2005... Byline: Sally Singer To celebrate, or obliterate, his fortieth birthday, my husband flew away for a golfing weekend with three friends. A year later, as I approached that thrilling milestone, I searched my mind for a rite of self- ...

say it loud.
September 1, 2005... After several seasons of finicking with motley mixes and "eccentric" looks, a strong, standout statement piece is what we crave now: a perfect high-impact coat, a chic and simple day dress, or a dramatic Victorian floor-sweeper that...

the magnificent seven; As "personal" dressing triumphs over mega-branding, a group of individualistic designers are pushing fashion into the future.
September 1, 2005... Byline: Sally Singer There is a new mood in the land. If, in the last year or so, you have found yourself fastening a snug coat with grosgrain ribbon, or layering strands of tulle-caged fake pearls around your neck, or wearing the tiniest...

Marc Jacobs.
September 1, 2005... Byline: Mark Holgate When Marc Jacobs showed his fall collection in New York last February, the haunting Disney-on-acid incidental music from Edward Scissorhands was the first inkling that we weren't in Kansas anymore. Gone was the...

Miuccia Prada Prada.
September 1, 2005... Byline: Mark Holgate Beyond the polite niceties of mouthing congratulations, there is a reason people crush backstage to meet Miuccia Prada after her shows: They want to see, up close and personal, what Miuccia herself is wearing-because...

Stefano Pilati YSL.(Yves Saint Laurent)
September 1, 2005... Byline: Mark Holgate After Stefano Pilati had been photographed by Steven Meisel for this story with six of his fellow power designers, he repaired to restaurant Da Silvano for lunch with Nicolas Ghesquiere and Marc Jacobs. "I said to Marc...

Olivier Theyskens ROCHAS.
September 1, 2005... Byline: Mark Holgate Olivier Theyskens learned a thing or two when he was in New York last May for the Metropolitan Museum's Costume Institute gala in honor of its Coco Chanel retrospective. A couple of days after the party, he went to...

Nicolas Ghesquiere Balenciaga. .
September 1, 2005... Byline: Mark Holgate Nicolas Ghesquiere hasn't met a fashion cliche that he couldn't undo. The 34-year-old Frenchman in charge of the house of Balenciaga has variously taken on: shoulder pads (on Dynasty-redux suits, fall 2000), cargo...

NARCISO RODRIGUEZ.
September 1, 2005... Byline: Mark Holgate Should you wish to acquaint yourself with what Narciso Rodriguez thinks is the defining moment of his fall collection, you might want to cast your eye over the fourteenth outfit on his runway. It was this: a tiny black...

Alber Elbaz Lanvin.
September 1, 2005... Byline: Mark Holgate Alber Elbaz and his design team are deliberating over a dressmaker's form clad in a black satin dress. The form is suspended from a weighty metal clip and chain that hang from the ceiling of the Lanvin atelier, and the...

pillow talk; In the afterglow of "Sex and the City", Sarah Jessica Parker is proving her might on the silver screen and at the perfume counter.(Interview)
September 1, 2005... Byline: Robert Sullivan A good thing about Sarah Jessica Parker is that even though her "life after Sex and the City" is in full swing, she feels that there is time to stop everything and smell the roses. She told the baby-sitter she'd be...

garden state; With its medieval-and-Tudor architecture, moat, and sweeping cottage gardens, British designer Jasper Conran's Suffolk manor house is an English country dream.
September 1, 2005... Byline: Vicki Woods Under foreign skies, every English heart beats for a country cottage in an English country garden. It's a nostalgic sentiment, but it is hardwired into the national consciousness, along with driving on the other side of...

hiding in the spotlight; There is no better disguise than full costume-with the perfect hat.
September 1, 2005... Byline: Joan Juliet Buck Hats have become the anxious distant relatives of fashion, appearing at special events, endearing, reassuring, amusing sometimes, but never quite the legitimate center of attention. That might change this fall,...

in the mood; In a new book, photographer Eric Boman re-creates the poetry that goes into the making of a Manolo Blahnik shoe.(Blahnik by Boman: Shoes, Photographs, Conversation)
September 1, 2005... Byline: Julia Reed By now there's scarcely a woman in the Western world who isn't aware of the remarkable transformational qualities of a Manolo Blahnik shoe: the elongated calf, the improved posture, the self-confidence so easily...

the selling of the socialite; Forget Paris: Park Avenue is going public.
September 1, 2005... Byline: William Norwich Despite the challenges of foggy cell-phone reception from her in-laws' English garden to me in Times Square, Amanda Brooks is determined to explain the meaning of the word masstige. Masstige? Sounds like a Mack...

eight fresh coats; In a season of statement dressing and dramatic details, the autumn coat takes a star turn.
September 1, 2005... The coat. It's the most important fashion decision you'll make this season. It's the security blanket, the cozy cocoon, the chic armor you reach for every day. If packaging is everything, your coat speaks volumes to the world about what lies...

natural selection.(Kaname Higa)(Brief Article)
September 1, 2005... His story reads like folklore. Jewelry designer Kaname Higa travels Manhattan in search of the perfect sales setting for his line, Turtle Forest. The collection of playful pieces that are at once edgy and romantically organic is Higa's labor of...

russian revolution.(Rodnik shawls)(Brief Article)
September 1, 2005... Coveted by fashion-savvy women overseas (we're talking the likes of Queen Rania of Jordan and Sienna Miller, queen of haute London, left), Rodnik's gossamer "goats' beard" Russian shawls ($185) are finally making their way Stateside. On a...

broadband.(wide belts)(Brief Article)
September 1, 2005... What to do with your spring 2005 superwide belt? Don't put it on moth balls just yet. It looks great for fall cinched over a cool coat.