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strangers in swagland; In Western ski country, Jenny Allen and her actress daughter are bewildered by the world of film-festival perks.(Column)
November 1, 2006... Byline: Jenny Allen
We had no idea.
It seems incredible, I know, but we didn't. My daughter, who is 21, is in a movie that was having its premiere at a film festival in the mountains, so we went to see it. Before we left, she'd gotten...
girls of the moment ocean's ten.(Brief article)
November 1, 2006... THE CROWD AT THE Gramercy Park Hotel celebrated the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalists and the launch of Montblanc's new jewelry collection, Magie en Blanc et Noir, in a sea of pearls. Ten beauties modeled Montblanc's new lariat, a white-gold...
trend of the moment exhibit a.(Brief article)
November 1, 2006... TO TOAST ARMANI AND THE Guggenheim Museum Artists' Ball, which takes place next month, Jacqueline Sackler hosted a dazzling dinner party at her art-filled Manhattan loft. Topping 60, the high-powered guest list included gallerists Gavin Brown,...
big deals.(Brief article)
November 1, 2006... At Sackler's house party, the evening's biggest hit was the huge jewels worn by everyone from Marielle Safra and Eva Lorenzotti, both in mega-sparkly stones, to Hope Atherton, who went for a groovier metallic necklace. Accenting dresses of...
trend of the moment glitter girls.(New York Fashion Week)(Brief article)
November 1, 2006... The brightest faces were all wearing glittery silver and gold dresses during New York Fashion Week. Mischa Barton in a supersparkly Marc Jacobs caftan, Karolina Kurkova in a strappy, metallic blue Jenni Kayne mini, and Margherita Missoni in a...
leader of the pack.(Brief article)
November 1, 2006... Everyone from Julia Restoin Roitfeld to Victoria Traina is finishing off their pretty dresses and fitted minis with bomber jackets. Cropped
at the waist with shrunken sleeves, these rebel-chic jackets work well with narrow pants and...
dear diary; It isn't a blog.
November 1, 2006... Byline: William Norwich
The topic at dinner was diaries. Keeping them, not reading them. (Forget it! Especially not a diary found without invitation in a sibling's drawer, or a diary kept by your husband that you've just discovered under...
whatever happened to helmut lang? A young couple takes on a still-young name with, as Sally Singer learns, cleverness and care.
November 1, 2006... Byline: Sally Singer
We're not him, so we can't even try to reproduce him. I just can't think about Helmut." So says Nicole Colovos, wife of Michael Colovos and, with him, the cofounder of Habitual. She was organizing the looks for their...
group think; The visionary wares of Catalan footwear collective Te Casan debut in New York this month.(Brief article)
November 1, 2006... Byline: Stephanie Lacava
Between April and October of this year, seven designers from across Europe decamped to an old textile factory just outside Barcelona to join a unique footwear collective called Te Casan. "Dali, Picasso and Gaudi...
the psychology of spending; Why, Jane Herman asks, do we splurge on one thing, skimp on another, and then break the bank just because we're on vacation.
November 1, 2006... Byline: Jane Herman
On an afternoon shopping excursion in uptown Manhattan, a young woman and her very stylish mother-in-law decide to stop into Carolina Herrera. A stiff-collared coatdress in the window has caught their attention. It has...
in her shoes; Muse, mother, and designer, Jacqueline Schnabel is making great strides with her latest venture: elegant but easy-on-the-wallet footwear.
November 1, 2006... Byline: Florence Kane
It's a given that on any given Saturday in SoHo, in the A.P.C. store on Mercer Street, the throngs of tourists and hipper 20-something New Yorkers are wholly unaware that the rough-hewn floorboards creaking beneath...
THE WINNING PANT: see by chloe.(Brief article)
November 1, 2006... Byline: Jane Herman
Everybody needs a few good basics: a tee or two, of course; a sweater you can wear for a morning staff meeting or to loll on the couch watching The Wire; a couple of pairs of workhorse pants; a clean button-down; a tote...
THE WINNING SHIRT: Nili Lotan.(Brief article)
November 1, 2006... I _ tuxedo shirts," wrote Brooke Sirianni, a 21-year-old student at New York's Fashion Institute of Technology when she saw Nili Lotan's ruffled, pleated-front button-down. Within minutes she was wearing it. And so were many of the women at...
THE WINNING KNIT: Alexander Wang.
November 1, 2006... Nothing got attention like this snowy-white cashmere sweaterdress from 22-year-old Alexander Wang. Seriously: What was it about this knit?
"The bell sleeves!" said Dalia Oberlander.
"And the length," added Jane Bloomingdale, who works...
THE WINNING TEE: Neal Sperling.(Brief article)
November 1, 2006... Expectations abounded in the T-shirt category. Time and again, one sample or another was picked apart as all wrong-if one was "too sporty," another was "too ephemeral" or "too primary and stiff" or "too synthetic-feeling"-and the next moment...
THE WINNING TOTE: T. Anthony.(Brief article)
November 1, 2006... Did you know the L.L. Bean totes float?!" dress designer Shoshanna Gruss said, laughing. "And they hold water, too. I once used mine to bail out a sinking rowboat."
That is just one reason the famous Boat and Tote was voted number two.
...
orange blossom.
November 1, 2006... Byline: Florence Kane
Orange County style has been quietly pervading New York lately. Example: This past summer I noticed tubsful of Rainbow flip-flops on the floor of Steven Alan in Nolita (anyone visiting from Laguna or Irvine or Dana...
the cult of vanessa bruno; She's the passion of Parisian sophisticates: tres chic but not trop cher.
November 1, 2006... Byline: Tina Isaac
Curiously for a designer who owns three boutiques in Paris and is currently celebrating a decade in the business, Va_nessa Bruno continues to hover below the American fashion radar. She is a phenomenal success in Japan,...
floria sigismondi; This Los Angeles photographer, video artist, and filmmaker has a wardrobe as creative and eclectic as her talents.(Brief article)(Column)
November 1, 2006... Byline: Florence Kane
I like to think my style is similar to how Fellini would dress a play. His characters are so full of life. My parents were opera singers, and I grew up around costumes, so I'm used to more theatrical things, like my...
panting; Katayone Adeli is back, and we'll all look a little chicer for it.
November 1, 2006... Byline: Sally Singer
In the past decade, two pants above all have made our backsides look shapely and our legs longer: the Seven jean and the Katayone Adeli low-rise flat-front trouser with forward-leaning side seams. If trousers are...
hot to handle; Trovata takes on handbags, introducing a high-low, have-to-have carpenter satchel.(Brief article)
November 1, 2006... Byline: Stephanie Lacava
Last year's CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund winners, the Orange County-bred team Trovata, will introduce their first bag in January. The Trovata carpenter satchel is sized just right, big enough for a laptop, small enough...
Three's Company; Take two Olsens, add one childhood friend, and what do you get.(Brief article)
November 1, 2006... Byline: Mark Holgate
We took nine months to get this right," says Danielle Sherman. The "we" is the Row, the just-born line of 28 knitted basics that are anything but basic, created by Sherman and Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen. The "this" is...
juicy fruit.
November 1, 2006... For some reason,
the words red, green, blue, yellow, pink, and turquoise just aren't doing justice to resort's juiciest patent leather heels_-which, when put together, look more like a handful of jelly beans. So we'll call them cinnamon,...
big talent; Joan Juliet Buck talks to Rachel Griffiths, the consummate alpha female of TV drama.(Interview)
November 1, 2006... Byline: Joan Juliet Buck
Rachel Griffiths is a great actress who delivers a charge that's a rare combination of Earth Mother, leader, troubled soul, sexual libertine, and player. A tall Australian with features that register the subtlest...
eternal return; From female courage to flowery melodrama, Volver showcases all of Pedro Almodovar's favorite obsessions.(Movie review)
November 1, 2006... It has become easy to take Pedro Almodovar for granted. When the great Spanish director's Volver played at Cannes last May, the public adored it, but jaded media types grumbled that it was too tame, too enjoyable, too commercial-like the real...
FOOD FOR THOUGHT.(Fast Food Nation)(Movie review)(Brief article)
November 1, 2006... Byline: John Powers
From government warnings about obesity to best-sellers like The Omnivore's Dilemma, American culture is obsessed with the politics of eating. Now comes Fast Food Nation, Richard Linklater's fictional adaptation of Eric...
record time; Evan Dando returns with the Lemonheads' first new album in ten years.(The Lemonheads)(Sound recording review)(Brief article)
November 1, 2006... Byline: Jeff Johnson
As he ambles across the cracked brick of Peck Slip in Lower Manhattan on his way to the restaurant Quartino for dinner, the musician Evan Dando cuts such a dashing figure that one would swear it was 1992, Dando was...
working girl; Nina Katchadourian brings her creative high jinks to lower Manhattan.(Brief article)
November 1, 2006... Byline: Leslie Camhi
Invite the artist Nina Katchadourian over and you may find her rearranging your books so that their titles spell out secret messages or repairing the spiderwebs in your
garden with red thread. Now the sly...
side by side; With Company leading the way, relationships take center stage, writes Adam Green.
November 1, 2006... Byline: Adam Green
Like second marriages, theater represents, to borrow from Samuel Johnson, the triumph of hope over experience. This month, as voters in several states head to the polls to decide the meaning of marriage, New York...
the big time.(Brief article)
November 1, 2006... Byline: Eve Macsweeney
In the continuing Chelsea landgrab by art galleries, Larry Gagosian is-surprise!-still leading the pack. This fall, Gagosian opens a second, humongous downtown space at 522 West Twenty-first Street. The new Richard...
Oceans Away; Forget the Caribbean.
November 1, 2006... Byline: Richard Alleman
The former Portuguese colony of Mozambique in southeastern Africa, with its glorious Indian Ocean beaches and abundant wildlife, has become the latest find for the sun-seeking crowd. Especially
desirable are the...
the interpreter; A Japanese ingenue makes her dazzling debut on the American screen.(Interview)
November 1, 2006... Byline: Caroline Palmer
Inside a cavernous restaurant at a New York hotel, the young Japanese actress Rinko Kikuchi sits in a corner politely cooling herself with a wide black fan. Flanked by a translator and her manager, the 25-year-old...
joie de vivre; Take a trip to France without ever leaving your chaise with these memorable reads.(Claudine's House)(Book review)
November 1, 2006... Byline: Megan O'grady
A wisteria-covered ch,teau in Burgundy is the evocative setting of Claudine's House (Hesperus), Colette's irresistible memoir of growing up with her doting mother and a menagerie of eccentric pets. Written 20 years...
on the mAP.(Point to Point Navigation)(Brief article)(Book review)
November 1, 2006... Byline: Taylor Antrim
Despite the subtitle, Gore Vidal's engaging new memoir, Point to Point Navigation (Doubleday), is not a complete account of the years 1964 to 2006. We hear next to nothing about his best-selling novels
of the...
cat power; In The Catwalk Cats, Grace Coddington and Didier Malige take three Chartreux, a red tabby, and a Persian on a wild ride through the fashion world.(Book review)
November 1, 2006... Byline: Jane Herman
A day in the life of a cat doesn't usually involve surfing in East Hampton, flamenco dancing in Seville, or sitting in for Kirsten Dunst at a Vogue shoot with Annie Leibovitz. But what if it did? Lucky for Henri, Coco,...
bountiful blessings; Ricky Lauren's new book celebrates food, family, and fresh-air life.(Ricky Lauren: Cuisine, Lifestyle, and Legend of the Double RL Ranch)(Book review)
November 1, 2006... Byline: William Norwich
It is domestic bliss watching Ricky Lauren prepare for a small luncheon at her country place about an hour north of Manhattan.
The way to a man's heart is through his stomach, yes, but I am easy. Even a...
flight plans; Tightened airport security means a scaled-back-strategically considered-beauty regimen.
November 1, 2006... Byline: Jane Shin Park
Parched lips, dark circles, dry eyes, stiff necks, and stale air have long been realities of air travel, but with strict new security regulations in place, arriving fresh and rested (looking, at least) just got a lot...
sweet nothing; Jane Birkin is at it again.(Brief article)
November 1, 2006... Byline: Sarah Harris
Sugar and spice? Sweetness and light?
Not quite. If anyone ever wondered what Jane Birkin-the actress and 1970s French fashion icon whose free spirit and pioneering haute-hippie style launched a million Hermes...
light years; The laser and light-source landscape now includes truly effective fixes for almost every imperfection-from sun spots to stretch marks.(Column)
November 1, 2006... Byline: Cara Birnbaum.
The shadowy divot above my left eyebrow came, ironically, from a dermatologist's attempt to "clean out" a patch of stubborn adolescent acne. For almost 20 years since, I've wished I'd told the man in the lab coat to...
rock stars; Salt makes a splash in the bath-and on the end of a toothbrush.(Brief article)
November 1, 2006... Byline: Jane Shin Park
When the Phoenicians transformed the tiny Mediterranean island of Ibiza into a major trading port in 654 b.c., opaque crystals found along the southern coast quickly became the region's most highly prized good....
a fine vintage; Grapes from the world's best vineyards are inspiring everything from first-rate skin care to five-star spas.
November 1, 2006... Byline: Catherine Piercy
When Mathilde Thomas celebrated her 1996 nuptials on the grounds of the eighteenth-century Ch,teau Smith Haut Lafitte, her family's grand cru classe vineyard in Bordeaux, the 300-plus guests threw grape seeds...
in full swing; An ace tennis retreat serves up eco-enhanced massages and facials at its smashing new spa.(Brief article)
November 1, 2006... Byline: Laurie Drake
When Bill and
Melinda Gates wanted to perfect their backhand,
they checked into Rancho Valencia, a top-ranked tennis resort that attracts heavy hitters from all walks of life (including former president Bill...
gene therapy; DNA tests are being used to predict disease, prescribe drugs, and even plan our diets.(Column)
November 1, 2006... Byline: Sally Wadyka
I was in the drugstore recently-picking up the usual supplies like toothpaste and conditioner-when something on the shelf caught my eye. It was a do-it-yourself DNA kit that promised to analyze my genetic profile and...
GOOD CHEER.
November 1, 2006... It's November. The sky outside the plate glass here in Times Square is
stone-gray, the mail guy has begun to hum
Christmas tunes, and we're up to our chins in wool.
So why all the bare legs and sandals on these pages?
Well, in...
head first; Cate Blanchett has created five films in two years and two children in five years.(Interview)
November 1, 2006... Byline: Michael Specter
When Cate Blanchett finished making Elizabeth in 1998, she told friends-with an equal measure of certainty and dread-that she was afraid the movie might be her last. "I just thought, Well, Glenda Jackson played it....
a light touch; With her simple, evanescent forms, Japanese architect Kazuyo Sejima is making a poetic impact on the American landscape.
November 1, 2006... Byline: Rowan Moore
Take a site in Tokyo and build a house on it. The site is small, as they mostly are in that city, and the house is for a young couple, their two children, and a grandmother. You might perhaps build the house to its site...
the great divide; In an administration beset by critics and problems here and abroad, how does Condoleezza Rice reach for a legacy of hope.(Interview)
November 1, 2006... Byline: Julia Reed
It is September 11, 2006, the fifth anniversary of the terrorist attack that killed 2,973 people on American soil, and Secretary of State Condoleezza Rice has started out the day fittingly enough. There was a church...
the sting; Beauty's latest obsession works by irritating lips to the point that they puff up in pain- a good thing, apparently.
November 1, 2006... Byline: Betsy Berne
I have a pair of lips that are, so to speak, "barely there." While barely there is generally a good thing in the realms of beauty and fashion, in this case it is most certainly not. Even in the bloom of my youth, my...
winner take all Marchesa; Ten design teams made the cut in the third annual CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund competition.(Brief article)
November 1, 2006... Byline: Jane Herman
Opening their presentation to the Fashion Fund judges, Keren Craig and Georgina Chapman read passages from Infinite Variety, Scot D. Ryersson and Michael Orlando Yaccarino's biography of Marchesa Luisa Casati, the...
3.1 Phillip Lim.(Interview)(Brief article)
November 1, 2006... Byline: Florence Kane
Has Phillip Lim ever had a low point in his career? He was hired as a design assistant and whisked off on a trip to Paris by Katayone Adeli just two weeks into his internship at her studio-and that was before he had...
Costello Tagliapietra.(Brief article)
November 1, 2006... Byline: Florence Kane
This red," says Robert Tagliapietra, holding up a dress from the spring collection he's designed with Jeffrey Costello, "there's so much color in this red-oranges, darks, and lights." He picks up another frock. "You...
Devi Kroell.(Brief article)
November 1, 2006... Byline: Jane Herman
In the spring of 2004, Devi Kroell debuted her collection of disco-metallic snakeskin satchels, and fashion lovers followed as if they'd been charmed. These simple sacks stitched of opulent skins were made even more...
Rodarte.
November 1, 2006... Byline: Jane Herman
Kate Mulleavy is comparing the dresses that she and her sister, Laura, design to the sound of the drum-heavy rock band the White Stripes. "They start with the most basic elements but make music that really fills a...
Subversive.
November 1, 2006... Byline: Florence Kane
The term Baroque comes from a Portuguese word that means "pearl of irregular shape." Is it any accident that Justin Giunta uses faux pearls in his lavish, ornately textured jewelry of irregular shapes? "When jewelry...
Doo.Ri.(Interview)(Brief article)
November 1, 2006... Byline: Florence Kane
Before we can check in with second-time finalist Doo-Ri Chung, some back story is required: Two years ago, when she participated in the first-ever Fashion Fund, Chung was reverse-commuting from her Chelsea apartment...
Rag & Bone.(Brief article)
November 1, 2006... Byline: Jane Herman
Why would two prep school friends from London with minimal fashion experience choose to take on the very American business of blue jeans? It was a sudden itch, an inspired impulse. In 2001, the originators of Rag & Bone...
Jovovich-Hawk.(Brief article)
November 1, 2006... Byline: Florence Kane
How's this for dedication? When plans fell through to have the samples for their spring 2006 collection sewn in New York, Carmen Hawk and Milla Jovovich stuffed eight suitcases with fabric and hopped a flight for...
Thakoon.(Brief article)
November 1, 2006... Byline: Jane Herman
People have been sending Thakoon Panichgul a lot of flowers lately: bouquets of cabbage roses, hydrangeas, and peonies. Maybe that's why flowers have turned up all over his spring collection, from the blown-out floral...
high drama; Bold, graphic combinations of black and white take center stage.
November 1, 2006... Baroque black-and-white curls swirled across a dress that's otherwise simplicity itself. . . . A canary-yellow coat that will make even the darkest days seem like summer. . . . The classic quilted chain-strap Chanel bag, now gilded in...
United Front.
November 1, 2006... Byline: Anna Wintour
This month we announce-not in this issue but at a gala party in New York on the 16th-the winners of the 2006 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund award. The ten finalists (who are featured in these pages) are all exceptionally...
helluva town.
November 1, 2006... The simple, no-frills dress was the big news of New York Fashion Week. And what a dull week it was. Nothing happened. No seismic shifts in proportions, no dramatic swings of mood. I found it about as exciting as changing a flat tire on a...
tickled pink.(Brief article)
November 1, 2006... We live just down the street from Huntington Gardens back home in Pasadena," said Laura Mulleavy, one half of the sister act, with Kate Mulleavy, that is Rodarte. (See "Winner Take All," page 346.) "They have one
of the oldest camellia...
BRAVO, VERA!(Brief article)
November 1, 2006... Byline: Andre Leon Talley
Around 1:00 a.m. on the eve of her spring show, Vera Wang received a phone call saying that her father, C. C. Wang, who was 87 and had been ill, was fading. She rushed to Southampton, Long Island, and was by his...