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after the deluge; Ten days after Katrina struck, Julia Reed filled a truck with food and gas and went to face the wreckage in her hometown of New Orleans.
November 1, 2005... Byline: Julia Reed
When I first took a place in New Orleans, it was on Bourbon Street, in front of a cathedral school and between two enormous gay bars, so that I was awakened in the morning by a tone-deaf nun singing "My Country, 'Tis of...
purple reign; For the party to celebrate Cartier's new jewelry line, the ten CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalists were given a plum assignment.(Brief Article)
November 1, 2005... The crowd ARRIVING at the launch of the Caresse d'Orchidees par Cartier collection may have initially wondered why eight stunning women in their midst-among them Lisa Airan, Kirsten Dunst, and Trish Goff-were wearing purple. But it didn't take...
house proud; The social world is staging a backlash against the McMansions of America.
November 1, 2005... Byline: William Norwich
The topic of conversation over tomato aspic and chicken salad at a lunch party last weekend was why rich people, especially the most newly minted, aren't more inspiring when it comes to their real estate.
In...
what works for work; On the agenda: a nationwide survey of nine-to-five fashion.(Brief Article)
November 1, 2005... Byline: Mark Holgate
Vogue's editors returned from the fall collections. The major new directions were digested. But one question wouldn't go away: What will the fashion-conscious American woman actually want to wear to work? Theories were...
skirt suits; The new power look is forcefully feminine.(Brief Article)
November 1, 2005... Just when you thought the skirt suit's stock had sunk to an all-time low, here it is rising, rising again. "When I worked at IBM's Pension Fund," says Marianna Olszewski (right), who favors suits from Chanel, Ralph Lauren, and Valentino, "the...
2 age; Fashion's all grown-up now-and women want to feel timeless.(Brief Article)
November 1, 2005... Abigail Golden (left) had no hesitation in choosing a Chanel LBD worn with Calvin Klein flats as her dream work outfit. She loved it for three reasons. First, the sixties vibe. Second, it looked effortless and elegant. Third, it felt right for...
3 pantsuits; Sleek and narrow . . . and still cool after all these years.(Brief Article)
November 1, 2005... Reports of the death of the pantsuit have been greatly exaggerated. Women in every part of the country still get huge mileage out of the jacket/pants combination. "I love this look," says Holly Moore (right), of this Ralph Lauren. "A strong...
4 surprise labels; Prove you're a risk-taker by wearing unexpected designers.(Brief Article)
November 1, 2005... While there's no shortage of marquee names helping you make the morning commute in style, there's now an ever-greater desire to experiment with less-obvious or more cutting-edge labels. From coast to coast, women are taking serious lunches in...
5 role play; Get inspired by Hollywood heroines.(Brief Article)
November 1, 2005... Rhiannon Kubicka (left) doesn't exactly stock her closet; she casts it. In terms of fact, Kubicka's workwear revolves around Prada, Derek Lam, and Louis Vuitton. But in her mind's eye, she sees herself dressing as Charlotte Rampling, Julie...
6 shoes; A playful pair is the most potent form of fashion expression.
November 1, 2005... I am a boot-buying freak!" declares Lisa Maas (41, public-relations president, Royal Oak, Michigan). "I love the slouchy Chloe boot this fall, and the Chanel over-the-knee boots-and I would wear them to the office! If I am not doing a boot, it...
7 personalization; Do it yourself: The new mix and match.(Brief Article)
November 1, 2005... On any given day, Robin C. Brooks (left, CEO of Brooks Food Group) might be in a suit from Narciso Rodriguez or Giorgio Armani-though she's just as likely to be wearing it broken-down and reworked with a Vivienne Westwood jacket, a Duro Olowu...
8 bags; Balenciaga, not briefcases.(Brief Article)
November 1, 2005... An executive briefcase? No. A minute bag that pops out of a massive bag at a moment's notice? No. If there's one thing that women want now, it's a singular, stunning, statement bag that multitasks more than they do.
"My bag serves as a...
9 the new casual.(Brief Article)
November 1, 2005... The concept of formally and informally was a hot, hot topic in our survey. What's clear is that the casual-Friday concept is waning across much of the country-for a variety of reasons.
Many women prefer to dress to a high standard whatever...
the buddy system; Zac Posen has no problem finding a fashion partner.
November 1, 2005... Byline: Robert Sullivan
In case you haven't noticed, Zac Posen is everywhere at the moment. He's on other people's jeans, on the hands of people driving Jaguars, on tights covered with crystals that are very nice and very much like...
carry on; A London designer turns the burdensome tote into a smart hold-everything.(Brief Article)
November 1, 2005... Byline: Jane Herman
In French it sort of means 'a knot in the hair,' " says Melissa Del Bono of the name she's given her line of simple, slouchy handbags. Meli' Melo', she explains, is something that's delightfully messy and mixed, like,...
force of nature.(clothing)(Brief Article)
November 1, 2005... Byline: Irini Arakas
One of my favorite pieces from the collection is a colorless leather jacket with asymmetrical pockets. It reminds me of clouds floating in the sky," says Seoul-born designer Hanii Y, who also looks to wind and water...
old soul; The Lulu Frost jewelry line finds beauty in the flotsam and jetsam of times past.(Brief Article)
November 1, 2005... Byline: Stephanie Lacava
Locks, hinges, and door escutcheons may seem unlikely sources for the elegant, handcrafted jewelry that Lisa Salzer designs under the name Lulu Frost-but then not many jewelry designers daydreamed in childhood...
this old thing? If last year was all about granny chic-all crocodile purses and gloves- this season's surprise star is granddad, with his rumpled tweeds, elbow patches, and leather-buttoned cardies.
November 1, 2005... Byline: Lynn Yaeger
It might well have started with Mademoiselle Chanel. Or Dietrich. Or Hepburn. Sick of crinolines and corsets, appalled by girdles, revolted by garters, these ladies went directly to their men friends' armoires and...
top of the pops; Fashion speed freaks raid Britain's Topshop for thrifty-chic threads.
November 1, 2005... Byline: Sarah Mower
In their heads, they're just a bunch of tomboys whose idea of a commercial summit is to slouch into work, check one another out, put their feet on the table, and ask, "Well, what do we feel like wearing today, then?" On...
popular mechanics.(Brief Article)
November 1, 2005... When the Chrysler Building was completed in 1930, Manhattan had its very own Metropolis-esque icon of the machine age. Its automotive-inspired steel dome is as radiant and futuristic today as it was during the Depression. The enduring influence...
high rise; This month, Idina Menzel reprises her breakout role in Rent for the big screen.
November 1, 2005... Byline: Adam Green
It's been almost a year since Idina Menzel put on her last coat of green Max Factor for her Tony-winning turn as Elphaba, the power-ballad-belting witch with the killer bod in Broadway's Wicked. Thousands of preteen...
on the home front; Sarah Jessica Parker is a haughty interloper in The Family Stone, while Richard Gere plays a single-minded father in Bee Season.(Movie Review)
November 1, 2005... The enduring irony of TV acting is that the very role that makes you famous can easily become your prison. Nobody knows this better than Sarah Jessica Parker, who has already pulled off one Cinderella transformation, turning herself from a...
CENTER STAGE.(Brief Article)
November 1, 2005... Byline: John Powers
Michael Winterbottom's Tristram Shandy: A Cock and Bull Story has the improvised exuberance you wish you could find on reality TV. Jeremy Northam plays a director shooting an adaptation of Laurence Sterne's hopelessly...
drama major; Gabriel Byrne stars in the Roundabout's production of a Eugene O'Neill masterpiece.
November 1, 2005... The famously upbeat playwright Eugene O'Neill once wrote, "One's outer life passes in a solitude haunted by the masks of others; one's inner life passes in a solitude hounded by the masks of oneself." All of O'Neill's greatest characters-Hickey...
SONGBIRDS.(Brief Article)
November 1, 2005... Byline: Adam Green
The late American society matron and soprano Florence Foster Jenkins was the Ed Wood of opera, possessed of all the qualities of a great diva except one: an ability to hit the right note. This month, at the Lyceum,...
high adventure; Joan Juliet Buck is fascinated by the dash and verve of three new shows, from the reckless lures of Las Vegas to the derring-do of King Kong's father to the dangerous games at British boarding schools.(Las Vegas: An Unconventional History)(Movie Review)
November 1, 2005... Byline: Joan Juliet Buck
Should you think that this is a peculiar, greedy, unthinking age, turn to PBS's American Experience series on November 14 and 15 to watch the two-part documentary about Las Vegas, where, in the words of one...
make it count; Terrence Howard is building his career one great role at a time.(Brief Article)
November 1, 2005... Byline: Irini Arakas
Terrence Howard has just finished reading The History of Mathematics. "I went to Pratt Institute for engineering. I love building things," says the 36-year-old actor, who is currently restoring a 230-year-old carriage...
grand gestures; Pioneering performance artist Marina Abramovic re-creates history this month at the Guggenheim.
November 1, 2005... Marina Abramovic spends her summer vacations on Stromboli, an island off the coast of Sicily, in a little house tucked under an active volcano. "I'm very attracted to places of power," she explains, "natural power, like waterfalls, craters, and...
OUT OF SIGHT.(art works)(Brief Article)
November 1, 2005... Byline: Leslie Camhi
Critics and public initially mocked the self-taught painter Henri Rousseau's strangely familiar landscapes of far-off places. But all that had changed by 1910, when Rousseau's canvas The Dream-a lush nude reclining...
tropical blooms; Fiji's most beautiful resorts, discovers Richard Alleman, can be found on their own private islands.
November 1, 2005... Byline: Richard Alleman
Lying ten air hours southwest of Los Angeles, the 330-plus islands that make up Fiji are blessed with untrampled beaches, turquoise waters, virgin rain forests, and genuinely friendly people-most of whom speak...
the tempest; Fiona Apple unleashes a passionate new album-her first in six years.(Brief Article)
November 1, 2005... Byline: Liza Ghorbani
Ever since she was a child on Manhattan's Upper West Side, Fiona Apple has had an unsubtle approach to dealing with her emotions. "My mother said there would be three sounds," she recounts with a laugh. "The first...
youthful indiscretions.(Lesley Castle)(Brief Article)
November 1, 2005... Byline: Florence Kane
Jane Austen was just sixteen years old when she wrote Lesley Castle (Hesperus), a satirical novella of letters exchanged by two young Regency women. Charlotte Lutterell's ludicrous passion for food causes her, when...
guilty pleasures; Arthur Japin's latest novel portrays the transformation of Casanova's first lover from country girl to courtesan.(In Lucia's Eyes)(Book Review)
November 1, 2005... Byline: Megan O'grady
To this day, Casanova's name is invoked to describe the most incorrigible of heartbreakers, but in his memoirs, in which he documents 122 conquests, he admits to breaking only two hearts. The first belonged to Lucia,...
continental divide; Paula Fox's new memoir recounts her adventures as a young reporter in postwar Europe.(The Coldest Winter)(Book Review)
November 1, 2005... Byline: Melanie Rehak
In the summer of 1946, after a miserable stint as a waitress in the Catskills, Paula Fox set sail for England on a "minimally converted" wartime troop carrier in search of adventure and, like any self-respecting...
truth be told; Two memoirs burst with the immediacy of news headlines.(Between Two Worlds: Escaping from Tyranny: Growing Up in the Shadow of Saddam)(Jesus Land)
November 1, 2005... Byline: Kate Bolick
When Saddam Hussein was captured two years ago, Zainab Salbi witnessed the event along with the rest of the world: on a television monitor. But she saw more than a fallen despot emerging from a hole in the dirt. Behind...
treasure hunt.(The Diamond)(Brief Article)(Book Review)
November 1, 2005... Byline: Maurice Samuels
Julie Baumgold's richly historical novel The Diamond (Simon & Schuster) tells the tale of the Regent, the 140-carat gem dug up by a slave in India, smuggled to England by Thomas Pitt, and purchased for the French...
the whole truth; Jeffrey Steingarten searches for grains that taste as good as they are good for you.
November 1, 2005... Byline: Jeffrey Steingarten
A whole wheat bread is baking in my oven, and the air smells sweet and warm and toasty. I have my fingers crossed-my luck with whole grains has never been good. I will offer a prayer to Ceres, goddess of grain....
The fragrance feast; What do tulips taste like, and what on Earth does cooking have to do with perfuming.(perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena)(Interview)
November 1, 2005... Byline: Vicki Woods
Perched on a hillside near Grasse, in Provence, is a small white villa that looks like an expensive holiday hideaway, shaded with pines. Walls of glass give on to views of the sea, the decor is all blond wood and...
smooth operator; Vilified and banned in the nineties, silicone is back-and this time it's new and improved.
November 1, 2005... Byline: Laurie Drake
There's no better barometer of age than the mouth. Unlike the eyes, whose beauty is barely dimmed by crow's feet, the lips peak early, in your 20s, before beginning a long, slow decline. The skin thins out and facial...
Artificial intelligence; New memory-enhancing drugs promise sharper thinking for the overextended and underslept.
November 1, 2005... Here is what brought me to this moment, an early weekday morning that finds me sitting in front of a glass of water and a tiny white pill for which I do not have a prescription.
Recently, for a variety of mundane reasons, I've had little...
Total recall; While we wait for the magic pill that will give us laser-like focus, here are two noninvasive, nonpharmaceutical options that may be worth a try.(mental efficiency-enhancing workshops, products)
November 1, 2005... Byline: Judith Newman
The Memory Fitness Institute
Touted as "boot camp for the brain," the MFI (memoryfitnessinstitute.org) is setting up workshops across the country. The program is based on Gary Small's
two-week plan from his...
Beautiful dreamers.
November 1, 2005... Love is in the air . . . and ruffles are on our skirts . . . and lace swings from our sleeves. Fashion's new mood is terribly sweet and willfully naive: Witness the saintly whites that blanketed the resort collections ("Like a Virgin," page...
little big man; Josh Hartnett is trying to squeeze stardom's bulk into curious artistic niches.(Brief Article)
November 1, 2005... Byline: Sally Singer
Josh Hartnett has maneuvered all six feet three inches of himself onto the Christian Liagre banquette, and the resulting spectacle-finely chiseled leading man on finely chiseled furniture-is deeply gratifying to...
La Dolce & Gabbana vita; When Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana restored an iconic property in legendary Portofino, they transformed the interiors into a disco fantasy.(fashion designers)(Interview)
November 1, 2005... Byline: Hamish Bowles
Fashion titans and serial "good taste" offenders Stefano Gabbana (tall, world-weary, and wryly acerbic) and Domenico Dolce (elfin, giddily enthusiastic, and ever jolly) had just completed work on yet another property...
Straight from the heart; Reese Witherspoon sheds her perky past to star opposite Joaquin Phoenix in country music's greatest love story-the long, passionate romance between June Carter Cash and Johnny Cash.(actress)(Interview)
November 1, 2005... Byline: Julia Reed
Reese Witherspoon is gushing. We are sitting in the Hotel Bel Air, where we have met to have high tea (English Breakfast for her, with lots of honey) and-more important-to talk about Walk the Line, the movie in which she...
The forgotten fight; Twenty years after AIDS first made headlines in America, the disease is ravaging sub-Saharan Africa.(Lauren Bush, David Lauren visit sub-Saharan Africa as World Food Program guests)(Interview)
November 1, 2005... Byline: Rebecca Johnson
Lauren Bush has never been hungry. Not in the cry-yourself-to-sleep way of starving children in Africa. She doesn't personally know people who have AIDS. Most of what she knows about the disease came from the...
Melissa Bent; Nonchalant and bold, this gallery owner dresses to please herself, with a gift for wearing designer pieces as if they were pulled from the back of her closet.(Interview)
November 1, 2005... Byline: Eve Macsweeney
You could call Melissa Bent a bit of a bag lady, in all senses of the term. She's as likely to stuff her very nice clothes into a plastic shopping bag as into one of the trusty, capacious totes she travels with,...
andrea ashworth; A collage-making, whimsy-loving English writer mines the vintage stores of Los Angeles-uncovering old lace and inspiration in the racks' fairy-tale depths.
November 1, 2005... Byline: Sally Singer
The writer Andrea Ashworth is settling her bill at Hidden Treasures, a good-old-things emporium in Topanga Canyon. She has drifted through rooms containing weathered quilts and flapper dresses and heavily used...
jacquetta wheeler; The English model's family link to the haunting Moroccan city of Tangier stretches back generations.
November 1, 2005... Byline: Mark Holgate
Jacquetta Wheeler faces an unusual dilemma: What to wear with a Moroccan belly dancer's skirt? It's not every day that a girl tackles a clothing conundrum like this, but what with designer Alice Temperley's...
Jean Yu.(Brief Article)(Interview)
November 1, 2005... Byline: Florence Kane
Jean Yu was just a girl when her fascination with pretty underpinnings began. "It was almost embarrassing," she says, "because in gym class everyone else was wearing white cotton briefs, and I had something on much...
trovata.(Brief Article)
November 1, 2005... Byline: Florence Kane
Meet the Fitzgilberts, an old-money family from Connecticut that's fallen on hard times and, in order to restore the goodwill of their kin, travels to Paris for a family reunion. What is this blighted, Waspy clan to...
isabel toledo.(Brief Article)
November 1, 2005... Byline: Florence Kane
The year is 1985. About 20 top industry names-including Bill Cunningham of The New York Times and buyers from Bergdorf's-are crowded into a borrowed shoe showroom. Backstage, five models dress themselves in a space...
derek lam.(Brief Article)
November 1, 2005... Byline: Florence Kane
Derek Lam fans have not just one spring collection to look forward to but two.
First there's his own line, of course. That one was inspired by the work of two sixties photographers: Sam Haskins, who did...
Project Alabama.(Brief Article)
November 1, 2005... Byline: Florence Kane
Somebody was saying the other day, 'Oh, what a great story,' " recalls Natalie Chanin. "It's not really a story. It's these people's lives."
By "people" Chanin means the 150-plus artisans in and around her native...
Thom Browne.(Brief Article)
November 1, 2005... Byline: Florence Kane
To have a suit fitted in Thom Browne's Meatpacking District studio in New York is a lot like joining an exclusive fifties men's club where rumpled-yet-urbane men like Ewan McGregor (he wears suits made for him by...
Anthony Nak.(Brief Article)
November 1, 2005... Byline: Florence Kane
I'm blown away by the people who travel from all over the world to come shop in that store," says Anthony Camargo. "A lot of people make a special trip," adds his partner, Nak Armstrong. The two jewelry designers are...
mayle.(Jane Mayle)(Brief Article)
November 1, 2005... Byline: Florence Kane
In terms of New York real estate, Jane Mayle's sweet little shop in Manhattan's Nolita neighborhood might be just a postage stamp. But in terms of presence, it looms pretty large. Here's an example: When Mayle...
costello tagliapietra.(Brief Article)
November 1, 2005... Byline: Florence Kane
On their last two tours, Patti Scialfa and Bruce Springsteen wore clothes designed by Robert Tagliapietra and Jeffrey Costello. Robert and Jeffrey have done movies and music videos; they've done concerts. But it...
lutz & patmos.(Tina Lutz, Marcia Patmos)(Brief Article)
November 1, 2005... Byline: Florence Kane
She likes Jimmy Choos, but she also likes flip-flops and goes barefoot. She likes her high-end La Mer, but then she might like Nivea and Maybelline mascara." Tina Lutz is profiling the sort of twenty-first-century...
spending power; Get ready to join the good fight.(AIDS fundraiser)(Brief Article)
November 1, 2005... Byline: Sally Singer
Forgive me, Lord, but I have shopped. Yet I never had more fun or more success or felt less guilt than at the first-ever 7th on Sale in 1990. I didn't work in fashion at the time-I was a lowly book editor-and so I...
sailing ahead; What's on the horizon.(vacation clothes)(Brief Article)
November 1, 2005... Whether you're packing for Palm Beach or Punta del Este, the latest resort collections make a strong case for anchoring your holiday packing around one key look. Right now that means keeping your Isabella Fiore duffel free of anything starched...
Faith & Hope.
November 1, 2005... Byline: Anna Wintour
In August, the unthinkable happened. A major American city was all but washed away. Readers will know that Julia Reed has her home in New Orleans, and I am very proud to be able to bring you her testimony of her return...
MAJOR TOM.(Tom Ford)(Interview)
November 1, 2005... "I get depressed
when I don't work. For a while I was going crazy," says Tom Ford,
the man who turned Gucci into the megabrand of the sexy go-go millennium, the man brave enough to step into the sacred shoes of Yves Saint Laurent....
old glory.(Americana influence)(Brief Article)
November 1, 2005... Byline: Andre Leon Talley
The standing-ovation show of spring 2006 fashion week in New York was definitely Marc Jacobs's: In blared the blue-and-white-clad Penn State marching band, stamping down the runway to Nirvana's "Smells Like Teen...
coat tales; At age seventeen, Jean Hanff Korelitz fell in love with an unassumingly elegant Perry Ellis brown coat that hinted at the sophisticated woman she hoped to-and would-become.
November 1, 2005... Byline: Jean Hanff Korelitz
When I was a senior in high school in 1978, I sold my first magazine story and took my entire earnings straight to Bloomingdale's. I had a very particular indulgence in mind. I wanted a coat like the ones I'd...