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stage beauty.
March 1, 2005... The flash and footlights of the Parisian theater inspired Coco Chanel
in the 1920s to startle the snobs with her mandate that simple modern dresses were best worn with artificial evening baubles-be they rhinestone or paste. Lately we've...
IMAGINE THAT.(celebrity's thinking about fashion)
March 1, 2005... Byline: Anna Wintour
This is our fifth annual power issue, and it celebrates the spirit of independence that strongly infuses current thinking about fashion-and is so badly needed in a time when, it seems, a certain resistance to the...
GLOBE TROTTERS.
March 1, 2005... Byline: Andre Leon Talley
This was not exactly
a banner fashion year for the Golden Globes. Watching
the sixty-second annual awards night,
beamed from the Beverly Hilton in L.A., was about as interesting as dissecting...
the best of everything; For the young Mary Gordon, Suzy Parker was the epitome of womanhood: confident, glamorous, smiling.
March 1, 2005... Byline: Mary Gordon
Has anyone ever looked happier? Has anyone ever been more beautiful? Suzy Parker and Cary Grant. She the first supermodel, anointed by Coco Chanel and Diana Vreeland. He is-well, Cary Grant: in uniform, decorated, his...
hell & high water; When Robert Fairer went for an early-morning dive in Thailand on December 26, he little knew what the ocean would yield.
March 1, 2005... Byline: Robert Fairer
The morning is perfect. As we sit at the breakfast table our caretaker, Wittaya, hurtles past us and out of the house. An hour later he returns white as a sheet. The maid explains that there has been an earthquake in...
the most wanted woman in the world; How did a Boston-educated scientist and mother of three end up on the FBI's list of possible top al-Qaeda terrorists.
March 1, 2005... Byline: Deborah Scroggins
Aafia Siddiqui, a 33-year-old Boston neuroscientist and the mother of three young children, became the most wanted woman in the world on May 26, 2004. That was the day U.S. Attorney General John Ashcroft strode...
lady who lunches; The multitasking mom and accessories designer Lulu Guinness keeps the home fires burning with cozy weekend parties in London.
March 1, 2005... Having whipped up a shepherd's pie with the greatest of ease last evening in the kitchen of her house near Notting Hill, the accessories designer Lulu Guinness is now working her culinary charms on the rest of today's very English luncheon.
...
inspiration.
March 1, 2005... Byline: William Norwich
1) Dress up a forgotten space, like a stairwell, with de Gournay's exquisite hand-painted silk wall panels. www.degournay.com. 2) Guermantes pearls are the perfect way to perk up your hostess apron. Van Cleef &...
spring fever; March comes in like a lion, and society's fancy turns to outdoor pursuits.
March 1, 2005... Byline: William Norwich
Social optimists dance on thin ice these days. Even polite dinner-party conversation can dump you headfirst into the minefield of modern political correctness, or lack thereof.
Having once been told that one of...
passport to style; Each season, fashion folk fly all over the world uncovering secret sources for accessories, jewelry, and fabrics.
March 1, 2005... where to go/what to do
Stockholm: Lars Nilsson
scoops up Scandinavian prints.
Athens: Devi Kroell grabs
Grecian sandals and gold.
Istanbul: Rifat Ozbek gets
inspired by antique embroideries.
London: Matthew...
destination stockholm; In a season of coolly exuberant prints, no one does it better than the Swedes.
March 1, 2005... Byline: Sally Singer
Miuccia Prada may have described it as Japanese; Proenza Schouler may have believed themselves to be channeling Hawaii; and all at Marni may have invoked Marimekko (Finland) and Vera (America). But watching the models...
destination marrakech; Hamish Bowles, in town for the film festival, unveils the city's hidden luxuries.
March 1, 2005... Byline: Hamish Bowles
During the Marrakech Film Festival, that fabled city turns more chic than boho, a transformation personified in the glamorous figure of the festival director, Melita Toscan du Plantier.
"I love this country," says...
destination athens; The bag designer Devi Kroell takes to the streets to find leather sandals, gold jewelry, and folkloric frocks.
March 1, 2005... Byline: Irini Arakas
You can't get around it," says Michael Kors. "From classic Grecian drapery to flat sandals to gold jewelry, Greece equals hot-weather magic." It's true, Greece was the word for designers this season as the goddess...
destination london; As Matthew Williamson demonstrates at the South Asian emporiums of Brick Lane, the vivid delights of India can be sourced a bit closer to home.
March 1, 2005... Byline: Mark Holgate
Despite his 36 trips to the Subcontinent, not to mention countless days spent scouring the markets and stores of London's Asian communities, the inveterate Indiaphile Matthew Williamson does sometimes stumble across...
asia major; The new London label Marchesa has made globalism glamorous, with fabrics inspired by the Far East and dresses with all the sexiness of the sari.(Brief Article)
March 1, 2005... Byline: Mark Holgate
When Renee Zellweger and Cate Blanchett needed something amazing for recent European movie premieres, they surprised everyone by choosing Marchesa, an obscure London label then barely six months old. Fashion radars...
destination istanbul; Rifat Ozbek returns to his native Turkey to find rich antique textiles and bright, gaudy belly-dancer costumes.
March 1, 2005... Byline: Hamish Bowles
The city where Europe meets Asia, Istanbul is a thrilling, sprawling, cosmopolitan place tumbling over its seven hills to the waters of the Bosporus. It is a cultural melting pot where the maverick design spirit of...
let us be your guide; Spring is loaded with crafty folk-art inspirations.(Buyers Guide)
March 1, 2005... Byline: Irini Arakas
embroidery
ALI FOLK ART ANTIQUE
Vaci utca 23, Budapest; (011) 361-337-6301.
Anna Sui heads here for
peasant blouses from
the nineteenth century.
LAL BEHARI TANDON
4 Aurobindo Place, Hauz...
ask mrs. exeter; How should women of a certain age tackle the season's global-bohemian trend-all those Moroccan caftans and Rasta-striped blouses.
March 1, 2005... Question I see that the spring collections are loaded with "ethnic" looks, which I think for the purposes of sounding politically correct, I should call global. Beaded pieces, Gypsy skirts, huge necklaces, rich peasant frocks, and probably from...
she means business; Once exclusively a bridal designer, Vera Wang is breaking away with a hit ready-to-wear line-plus jewelry, shoes, crystal, perfume.(Interview)
March 1, 2005... Byline: Sarah Mower
"I'm not a young designer, but I'm a new designer. If that makes any sense!" Vera Wang is sitting cross-legged in black leggings and a T-shirt, throwing her long, elegant arms in the air as she talks. She is 55, she...
neighborhood watch; Desperate Housewives has thrown open the closets of the modern-day suburbanite.
March 1, 2005... Byline: Mark Holgate
The wardrobes of the women of Wisteria Lane are to be found not in pretty, pastel-packed, Pottery Barn-like closets, but racked and stacked in a 52-foot trailer that travels from the studio lot to locations across...
my fair lady; Richard Eyre's smash-hit new production of Mary Poppins stars Laura Michelle Kelly as everyone's favorite flying nanny.(Theater Review)
March 1, 2005... Byline: Hamish Bowles
Amid a shower of cherry blossoms and magic, Mary Poppins has finally materialized on the London stage in the comely form of Laura Michelle Kelly. Directed by Richard Eyre, this dazzling musical adaptation of P. L....
somewhere in paradise; In The Ballad of Jack and Rose, Rebecca Miller proves her mettle as a director of subtle optimism.(Movie Review)
March 1, 2005... The essence of being human," wrote George Orwell, "is that one does not seek perfection." If anyone should know this lesson by heart, it's surely Rebecca Miller, who has spent decades living with men who never learned it. Not only is she the...
sour grapes.(Mondovino)(The Best of Youth )(Movie Review)
March 1, 2005... Byline: John Powers
Like a brilliant extended footnote to Sideways, Jonathan Nossiter's documentary Mondovino examines the decadent soul of the twenty-first-century wine biz. For millennia, Nossiter suggests, artisanal winemakers turned...
beyond belief; In two powerful new dramas, writes Adam Green, playwrights John Patrick Shanley and Stephen Adly Guirgis bring questions of faith to the New York stage.(Doubt)(The Last Days of Judas Iscariot)(Theater Review)
March 1, 2005... Theatrical nuns have traditionally come in four flavors: winsome free spirit (The Sound of Music), emotionally fragile mystic (Agnes of God), holy-rolling hoofer (Nunsense), and catechism-spouting psycho (Sister Mary Ignatius Explains it All...
the sunshine boys.(playwrights Martin McDonagh and Neil LaBute)(Brief Article)
March 1, 2005... Byline: Adam Green
Martin McDonagh refuses to discuss his work, or anything else, with members of the press, but boy, does he write good plays. Most notably: the Leenane trilogy, with its haunting portraits of rural Irish life. Now, in the...
grand statement; Christie's showcases the estate of a consummate tastemaker.(Mrs. Charles W. Engelhard, Jane; mother of Annette de la Renta)
March 1, 2005... Byline: William Norwich
From museum curators to Park Avenue decorators, when the nobles in the world of interiors wonder what their queen is doing with her house tonight, the lady they all have in mind is Annette de la Renta. The woman...
the paper trail.(Japanese architect Shigeru Ban)(Interview)
March 1, 2005... Byline: Elisabeth Franck-dumas
Japanese architect Shigeru Ban's designs have acquired a reputation for their winning combination of formal elegance and functionality. Whether at the art gallery fronting Issey Miyake's headquarters in Tokyo...
good education; With a combination of glamorous fund-raisers and financial savvy, three young women take up the plight of Afghan schoolchildren.
March 1, 2005... Byline: Caroline Palmer
It could be any kind of festive party, except for the ubiquitous presence of Kelly-green ribbons: threaded through a pair of Manolos, looped around the silver handle of a clutch bag, or tied elegantly around a...
the cafe around the corner; To the relief of locals, art dealers, and celebrities alike, an Upper East Side enclave reopens its doors.(Sant Ambroeus)
March 1, 2005... Byline: Dodie Kazanjian
Arestaurant is loved for mysterious reasons. The legendary art dealer Leo Castelli had lunch and dinner at Sant Ambroeus almost every day because it reminded him of his European childhood. "It was very familiar,"...
la comedie humaine; Setting her sights on the French elite, Parisian filmmaker Agnes Jaoui blends Woody Allen wit with a Jane Austen sensibility.
March 1, 2005... Byline: John Powers
I always wanted to be famous," says Agnes Jaoui, flashing a fierce little smile that tells you she's not kidding. "Being famous makes you beautiful and sexy-it gives you all the things you don't have."
These days,...
the awful truth; Joan Juliet Buck reviews a fine film about Rwanda and Fat Actress, the new series that is 100 percent tabloid.(Sometimes in April)(Movie Review)
March 1, 2005... Byline: Joan Juliet Buck
Raoul Peck's Sometimes in April, on HBO March 19, is an intense and heartbreaking film about one of the most horrifying and shockingly unopposed genocides of the twentieth century. The film has an elegiac grace and...
blame it on rio; A small London firm brings new luxury to the beaches of Brazil.
March 1, 2005... Byline: Richard Alleman
The British firm of Cazenove + Loyd has recently assembled a group of glamorous villas available for rental, fully staffed, in two of Brazil's chicest beach areas-Angra dos Reis and Buzios. The former is an...
candyland; A new show uncovers the fun side of a serious genre.(art exhibitions)(Brief Article)
March 1, 2005... Byline: Nico Israel
These days, when Americans imagine landscape, they might picture red and blue states-particularly in Ohio, where the fate of the presidential election hung in the balance. But "Landscape Confection," an exhibition at...
beautiful dreamer; A Paris-based singer brings her cosmopolitan charm to New York.(Keren Ann)(Brief Article)
March 1, 2005... Byline: Adena Spingarn
Singer-songwriter Keren Ann doesn't spend her nights dancing on tables at Bungalow 8. In fact, the Paris-based chanteuse prefers to do her thing in New York's smaller, more intimate spaces. It's not that surprising....
a day in the life; In Ian McEwan's riveting latest, a wealthy neurosurgeon tries-and fails-to go about his business during an antiwar protest in London.(Saturday)(Book Review)
March 1, 2005... Byline: Taylor Antrim
Novelists take a risk in depicting global events of the day. Fiction can't compete with the news for timeliness, and the cultural present-our music, our fashion, even our political debates-is forever moving on. And...
take two.(Hollywood: The Movie Lover's Guide)(Brief Article)(Book Review)
March 1, 2005... Byline: Jane Herman
Much has happened in movies
since Richard Alleman wrote Hollywood: The Movie Lover's Guide, a tour of Tinseltown's memorable landmarks, in 1985. Think of all the
L.A.-based films that have entered the lexicon...
strike a pose; Actress, fashion pioneer, author, sex object.(Perdita: The Literary, Theatrical, Scandalous Life of Mary Robinson )(Book Review)
March 1, 2005... Byline: Leslie Camhi
If the modern age began in the eighteenth century, Mary Robinson was among the first to embrace it. A celebrated actress, royal mistress, and, later, distinguished woman of letters (whose roman a clef about her love...
gilding the lily; Diamond-dust exfoliants, liquid-gold body wraps, caviar masks, and a single pearl.(Column)
March 1, 2005... Byline: Joan Juliet Buck
Any alchemist can tell you that the power lies in what you can't see. When I was a teenager I used to make face masks out of pink toothpaste, Shalimar, and a shot of rubbing alcohol, but it was Gene who first made...
miami rhapsody.
March 1, 2005... Byline: Maggie Bullock
In his first big move since shuttering his revered Fifth Avenue megasalon last year, the hairstylist who helped define the supermodel era is back with a bang. Oribe is no ordinary hairstylist-in addition to tending...
Bigelow's big time; Fueled by nineteenth-century inspiration, Manhattan's favorite apothecary branches out.
March 1, 2005... Byline: Sarah Brown
This book is like a Who's Who of New York," says Ian Ginsberg, gently lifting the dusty, dog-eared cover of a giant ledger whose thick, yellowed pages barely hold together. Inside, written in elegant black script-the...
on the rocks; A cocktail or two after work, a few glasses of wine with dinner-how much is too much.
March 1, 2005... Byline: Lisa Belkin
Perched on a stool at a neighborhood bar, Mira is catching up with a friend. It is early evening on Sunday, the time of day when light yields to darkness, the hour that many people meet for drinks. Nursing a Corona, the...
bold moves; Spring is a time for change, and the collections delivered in spades-with ambitious new directions from the top of your rainbow Patricia Underwood beret to the tip of your lemon Louis Vuitton platform sole.(Editorial)
March 1, 2005... Strength: What better word to sum up spring 2005? The biggest, boldest news of the season is the magnificent range of color that's washing over everything from soft-pastel trench coats to ruby-red cardigans ("Paint the Town," page 464)....
the producer; Sandra Bullock swears she doesn't reveal anything in interviews.(Interview)
March 1, 2005... Byline: Jonathan Van Meter
Warner Bros. Studios in Burbank is one of those places in California that are so deeply, quintessentially, preposterously "Hollywood" that I can't help thinking, while I am there, about how weird it must be to...
humble's gift; How did Alber Elbaz transform the house of Lanvin into the fashion world's most-wanted label.
March 1, 2005... Byline: Sally Singer
A typical Alber Elbaz story-which the 43-year-old designer for Lanvin is as likely as anybody to tell-casts him in the role of the outsider who cannot quite believe that the velvet rope has been raised to admit him to...
growing into glamour; How to tread the line between news source and girl-next-door, youthful charm and mature grace, fabulous success story and Everywoman.(Katie Couric)(Interview)
March 1, 2005... Byline: Vicki Woods
First, let's nail one thing: Katie Couric did not wear black the day George W. Bush's reelection results came in. "It was navy! it was navy!" she says, hopping up and down on her heels. Navy, huh? Many people watching...
stream of conscience; Rock star, global activist, coalition builder-Bono is, in every sense, the voice of his generation.(Interview)
March 1, 2005... Byline: Robert Sullivan
Stately, strong-voiced Paul Hewson, a.k.a. Bono, descended from the stairhead toward the beginning of an Irish day-bearing not his sunglasses, amazingly, but his thick, strong-gripped hand, extended in gracious...
homegrown heroine; With three decades of experience, Emily Rafferty, the Met's newly appointed president, might just be its best acquisition yet.
March 1, 2005... Byline: Dodie Kazanjian
Emily Rafferty was on a hiking trip in Italy last September when the call came through on her cell phone from James Houghton, the chairman of the Metropolitan Museum's board of trustees. "I'm calling to tell you...
miller's tale; With her jaw-dropping beauty, heart-throbbing fiance, and showstopping style, Sienna Miller is the girl of the moment.(Biography)
March 1, 2005... Byline: Hamish Bowles
On Christmas Day 2004, Jude Law proposed to Sienna Miller, confirming her status as Girl of the Year. This golden sprite, a tender 23, is on the cusp of an intriguing movie career of her own; she is also possessed of...
sacred monster; Model, keeper, co-conspirator, for 50 years Gala Dali was the ferocious wife of the celebrated Surrealist Salvador Dali. On the occasion of a retrospective at the Philadelphia Museum of Art, Jane Kramer takes a look at the master's muse.(Biography)
March 1, 2005... Byline: Jane Kramer
Gala was not her given name. It may have been a childhood nickname; she sometimes said so. Or it could be that the poet Paul luard, who fell in love with her at a sanatorium near Davos, when they were seventeen, chose...
the new hit girl; The most exciting female tennis player in the world, Maria Sharapova, talks to Dodie Kazanjian about her meteoric rise to the top.(Interview)
March 1, 2005... Byline: Dodie Kazanjian
Standing on the curb, Maria Sharapova waits for her car to arrive. Gazelle-thin and six feet tall in ivory warm-up pants and a pale yellow jacket, she reaches upward with both arms and forms an elongated S, her...
comedy knights; With a thunder of clattering coconuts, Monty Python's Spamalot gallops onto the Broadway stage.
March 1, 2005... Byline: Adam Green
Eric Idle began his career in show business as one of five Oxford and Cambridge lads and one American expat, known collectively as Monty Python, who, with their seventies TV series and a handful of feature films, set the...
nueva cocina; Munching his way through Spanish Basque Country, Jeffrey Steingarten celebrates the chefs who are changing the way we eat.(Column)
March 1, 2005... Byline: Jeffrey Steingarten
The missus and I turned off the main highway that runs between San Sebastian and Bilbao along the northern coast of Spain and headed south to find the town of Axpe and the remarkable restaurant Etxebarri. This...
the fine prints; Wallflowers, please step aside.
March 1, 2005... Beautiful buds just like those found in Victorian botanical studies . . . dynamic swirls that once decorated chic Stockholm apartments circa 1962 . . . massive palms that sway as gently on a skirt as they do on Makena Beach in Maui.
.... ..
sun-kissed.(Brief Article)
March 1, 2005... Two surprises about Elizabeth Hurley's first foray into the world of fashion design (debuting next month at Saks Fifth Avenue): 1. There's not a trace of va-voom red-carpet glamour; instead Hurley has come up with a collection of low-key,...
give a helping hand.(Brief Article)
March 1, 2005... Proceeds from the new line of elegant bags by Fiona Kotur (right) benefit Operation Smile, a nonprofit organization that provides reconstructive surgery to children in developing nations (www.operationsmile.org). Fashioned from vintage silk...
needle sharp.
March 1, 2005... Alexander Wang's lean collegiate cardigan (right, $250; Riley James, San Francisco) is one of six chic styles from his debut collection.
rocking out.
March 1, 2005... Decisions, decisions: To plump for Louis Vuitton's $35,000 citrine ring (like Sarah Jessica Parker, right, flashing her 140-carat bling)? Or get the knockout knuckle-duster look for much (much) less with one of Jemma Cole's amethyst, citrine,...
budding future.
March 1, 2005... The humble carnation has bloomed into the hothouse flower du jour
and looks best worked into over-the-top arrangements of eye-popping fuchsia, crimson, and tangerine. L. Becker Flowers, which does the dramatic carnations for Oscar de la...
this & more. . . .(Brief Article)
March 1, 2005... Window
on Her World
An elegant forties beaded top, evocative travel books, exquisite cashmere throws: All of Calypso designer Christiane Celle's treasures from her global treks have now been gathered under one roof. The new Calypso...
directory.
March 1, 2005... Page 76 (cover look): Sunset-red dress with tangerine-velvet trim, $5,500. Oscar de la Renta, NYC, Bal Harbour FL. Ring, $8,750. To special order at the Gem Palace Collection, call (212) 481-2123. Bracelet from the Vintage Collection....